Crelant V11A 14500/AA XML $39

V11A is my EDC in my pocket light. Running the 14500 and this little dude is great. momentary on, three modes that you can cycle through by half push and memory of last mode used.

build is quality to me and the price is right . bought mine through md-lightsource.

I’ve had my v11a and v31a for a few days now. Have some more opinions to share, if anyone cares. :stuck_out_tongue:

First off, tint and temp….

The neutral v31a was totally worth the price from md linked above. Much nicer tint. Very similar to my Zebralight SC80w neutral. Slightly-warm, buttery goodness! Less extreme brightspot vs cool but not very noticeable even side by side. Both have similar spill, no rings, etc. Look good to me.

With the cool model 11 and neutral model 31 crelants side by side the difference in temp/tint is apparent. However, comparing the cool Crelant to cheaper cools like my TF R5A3 and Aurora SH0034, the Crelant looks quite neutral by comparison. It’s all relative. My cool v11a might have a very slight purple tint to the outer corona, but like I said, its pretty good for a cool white.

On to design observations….

As I suspected [and hoped] the heads are indeed interchangeable. Inside body width is about 17mm. The 14500 v11a necks down inside the battery tube, so no bigger cells like 17670s (not that length would allow it anyways) or 17500s. Total outside body width is about 22mm at its widest point

The anodized gunmetal grey finish is ever so slightly darker on my 31. Barely noticeable, until you lego them. Both are quite pleasing to the eye and touch with a silky smooth satin finish. Nice color combo IMO. Contrast between grey body and polished bezel/clip makes for a clean, classy look.

Both have good FnF. Good knurling. Threads are not square, but they are very smooth with a dab o lube. Both my lights were very clean inside. No Chinese factory gunk. Clear rubber o-ring seems like a decent one. We will see how it holds up.

Both really are on the big side for their battery size….

The AA cell 11 is about the size of some newer small 18650 lights. The AA v11a is the same width as the cr123 v31a and heads are the same, so I think Crelant could make an 18650 version for longer runtimes. Personally, I would like to see it happen.

The CR123A cell v31a is a couple mm longer than my Aurora SH0034, which is known as a fairly large single cr123 light, mostly due to its deep reflector. The v31a and sh0034 have very similar dimensions all around. The Crelants reflectors are pretty deep too….

After noticing this similarity and comparing to other lights I realized the reflector on these EDC Crelants may actually be deeper than I let on before. Seems these lights were designed around the head and were probably intended to be XM-L from the begining. After using them a bit more, I can say throw is pretty dang solid for a 450[ish] lumen XM-L pocket light. (The Aurora SH34 still out-throws the Crelants with both on IMR, but with a _much _smaller XR-E spot.)

Crelants benefit of using the same head for their entire EDC line is lower production costs thru shared parts… Possible tradeoff being: both models are long for their cell class… and the AA 11 model is very chunky (wide) for its cell class, because it’s just a stetched and internally necked battery tube.

Honestly, I am willing to take the “tradeoff” for the benefit of more throw with an XM-L. I am usually more of a XP-G fan for outdoor use, but these crelants do the trick nicely out to medium range. Fine for a smallish “EDC” type design. Yes, they’re on the big side, but I kinda like that cause I have big hands. :slight_smile:

One thing I don’t care for is the lack of serviceability. If anyone figures out how to break one of these suckers down completely please let us know. I don’t want to eff mine up. :slight_smile:

Overall good quality for the money I would say. If you like the design and the size is acceptable to you, give them a look.

Good point. I am getting used to using half-press to cycle modes and pre-select before full clicking on. Works pretty well that way.

No signaling capability, but I have fortunately never had the need for it… and besides… I have signaling mirrors and other methods if need be.

Thank you for the short review. May I ask you for a couple of pictures of the Crelants next to some other lights that we are more familiar with? Any real-life pictures will do.

The head on the Crelant looks like an over-sized, better-built FandyFire S3 head. I like.

https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/7386

I think the fandy s3 is a clone of another design but I see what you mean.

Not the greatest but should give an idea of scale

From left to right…

Back row: AW IMR 18650, baked generic cree 3xAAA/18650 zoomie, XinTD C8, [lightly] baked Jacob a60.

Middle row: Eneloop XX AA, Crelant v11a, Crelant v31a, Uniquefire S1, Aurora SH0034.

Front row: AW IMR 16340, Trustfire BLF Mini, Trustfire Z1, Zebralight sc80w

Foreground: Peak Eiger on paracord neck lanyard.

Knives: Leen 1203-2, Sanrenmu 604, Enlan el02-b.

Does anyone know if it's regulated on high mode or DD.

pretty sure not direct drive.

from what I can tell my v31a is regulated…how long does it run in regulation? no clue…but as the battery drains and voltage drops the tailcap readings go up…clear indication it’s regulated…

As far as a total breakdown (found out by accident). the head does break down further, it is hard to tell but where the smooth part ends is where it is threaded together and allows you to remove the reflector assembly from the emitter.
These are very fine threads so would not recommend dis assembly often.

As far as I can tell the body does not come apart near the switch end.

Thanks for the tip mkett. Good to know. :slight_smile:

Been using the V31A as my office coat EDC. The initial ‘new light glow’ has faded a little, but still digging it very much.

Further to my notes above…. The switch on my V11A is a tad wobbly when tailstanding, but it works. The V31A stands completely flat and more solidly. It is a minor mm or two difference between the two.

Switch actuation on my 31 feels a little tighter and more precise as well. The 11 has a teeny tiny amount of slop to it. I think it may just be the rubber switch cover and not the switch itself. It is very minor difference between my two models, probably normal manufacturing variation.

Of course…… I can’t access the switch end of the body to dick around with it! grrrrrr :expressionless: Dammit.

Marfire has lego lights 308 303 306 but these are expensive for the price they need to be $15.

I like lego lights because they provide extra redundancy and backup.

Thanks for the heads-up how2. I had not seen those lights you linked before. They look fairly promising, but I agree the pricing is on the high side. I am not familiar with Marsfire, but if they are similar quality to the other **fire brands they should be sold for less. Closer to $15, as you said.

By comparison, the Crelants in the $30 range have a much higher quality feel to them. A better value for the money for sure.

Haterade the Crelant V11A, V21A and V31A has lego head and bodies. You should all of them but the marsfire has a slight advantage in terms of cell types.

Another brand which will have lego is the EXPLORER E82, EXPLORER E84 and EXPLORER E83 just like Crelant and looks worth the money.

May pick up a v21a eventually, but not really big on multi-cell lights in general.

Should also mention I completely detest and loathe flashy modes. I avoid them like herpes, even if it means paying a little more. This is part of what drove me to the Crelants in the first place.

The Explorer series you linked [one of them does not work] with the ring UI should make it so I never have to hit SOS mode. That is huge. Could seal the deal.

Again, I am not familiar with the Explorer brand. Is the quality really on par with the price (considering price I paid for the Crelant from US sources)? If they were closer to $20 it would really be tempting.

Fixed

cheers mate

Received mine a few days ago (V11A). For the price I got it, just under $30, I'm quite happy with it, however I am less than pleased with performance on nihm batteries. I realize they are not the best, but I got 12 Duracell 1600mAh batteries, and tested with those.

Light barely seemed to want to work at all with them. I have yet to test it out with a regular alkaline AA, but with a protected 14500 it does work very well.

As others have noted, mine also tail stands, but the tail switch protrudes just a bit, making it unstable.

I would love to find a better AA/14500 option, currently also have the Balder HD1 which is also AA/14500.