Good point. I am getting used to using half-press to cycle modes and pre-select before full clicking on. Works pretty well that way.
No signaling capability, but I have fortunately never had the need for it… and besides… I have signaling mirrors and other methods if need be.
Thank you for the short review. May I ask you for a couple of pictures of the Crelants next to some other lights that we are more familiar with? Any real-life pictures will do.
The head on the Crelant looks like an over-sized, better-built FandyFire S3 head. I like.
https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/7386
I think the fandy s3 is a clone of another design but I see what you mean.
Not the greatest but should give an idea of scale
From left to right…
Back row: AW IMR 18650, baked generic cree 3xAAA/18650 zoomie, XinTD C8, [lightly] baked Jacob a60.
Middle row: Eneloop XX AA, Crelant v11a, Crelant v31a, Uniquefire S1, Aurora SH0034.
Front row: AW IMR 16340, Trustfire BLF Mini, Trustfire Z1, Zebralight sc80w
Foreground: Peak Eiger on paracord neck lanyard.
Knives: Leen 1203-2, Sanrenmu 604, Enlan el02-b.
Does anyone know if it's regulated on high mode or DD.
pretty sure not direct drive.
from what I can tell my v31a is regulated…how long does it run in regulation? no clue…but as the battery drains and voltage drops the tailcap readings go up…clear indication it’s regulated…
As far as a total breakdown (found out by accident). the head does break down further, it is hard to tell but where the smooth part ends is where it is threaded together and allows you to remove the reflector assembly from the emitter.
These are very fine threads so would not recommend dis assembly often.
As far as I can tell the body does not come apart near the switch end.
Thanks for the tip mkett. Good to know. 
Been using the V31A as my office coat EDC. The initial ‘new light glow’ has faded a little, but still digging it very much.
Further to my notes above…. The switch on my V11A is a tad wobbly when tailstanding, but it works. The V31A stands completely flat and more solidly. It is a minor mm or two difference between the two.
Switch actuation on my 31 feels a little tighter and more precise as well. The 11 has a teeny tiny amount of slop to it. I think it may just be the rubber switch cover and not the switch itself. It is very minor difference between my two models, probably normal manufacturing variation.
Of course…… I can’t access the switch end of the body to dick around with it! grrrrrr 
Dammit.
I like lego lights because they provide extra redundancy and backup.
Thanks for the heads-up how2. I had not seen those lights you linked before. They look fairly promising, but I agree the pricing is on the high side. I am not familiar with Marsfire, but if they are similar quality to the other **fire brands they should be sold for less. Closer to $15, as you said.
By comparison, the Crelants in the $30 range have a much higher quality feel to them. A better value for the money for sure.
Haterade the Crelant V11A, V21A and V31A has lego head and bodies. You should all of them but the marsfire has a slight advantage in terms of cell types.
Another brand which will have lego is the EXPLORER E82, EXPLORER E84 and EXPLORER E83 just like Crelant and looks worth the money.
May pick up a v21a eventually, but not really big on multi-cell lights in general.
Should also mention I completely detest and loathe flashy modes. I avoid them like herpes, even if it means paying a little more. This is part of what drove me to the Crelants in the first place.
The Explorer series you linked [one of them does not work] with the ring UI should make it so I never have to hit SOS mode. That is huge. Could seal the deal.
Again, I am not familiar with the Explorer brand. Is the quality really on par with the price (considering price I paid for the Crelant from US sources)? If they were closer to $20 it would really be tempting.
Fixed
cheers mate
Received mine a few days ago (V11A). For the price I got it, just under $30, I'm quite happy with it, however I am less than pleased with performance on nihm batteries. I realize they are not the best, but I got 12 Duracell 1600mAh batteries, and tested with those.
Light barely seemed to want to work at all with them. I have yet to test it out with a regular alkaline AA, but with a protected 14500 it does work very well.
As others have noted, mine also tail stands, but the tail switch protrudes just a bit, making it unstable.
I would love to find a better AA/14500 option, currently also have the Balder HD1 which is also AA/14500.
Check your voltage on those NiMh and also try some lithium primaries. That doesn’t sound quite right.
My V11A puts out about 1/3 to 1/2 the output on NiMh (eneloop XX) than 14500 IMR, but it definitely works OK… If I had to guess, maybe about 150-200 lumen? Seems about right to me considering the voltage. I did not even try standard alkies, but energizer L91 lithiums looked about the same as eneloops to my eye.
You said yours ‘barely seemed to want to work at all with them’ and that does not sound right. XM-L needs high current to really perform, but output should be pretty much proportional to voltage (about 1/3 - 1/2).
Might want to stick to XP-G emitters if you plan to use low voltage cells often. They seem better suited to AAs than XM-Ls are. Unless you go 2xAA that is.
Have you considered the Jetbeam BA10?