Nice, you got a good fade from bezel to tail with hanging it, and from the colour Iād say you got it hot enough, your not far off gold on the bezel. 8)
You guys finally got me to try it. I am baking one of my older and not important lights. Itās a Rominsen 2 AA that I wouldnāt mind if it got messed up. Very easy to take apart and Iām pretty sure it is just type 2 so it will be a good test. Itās in the oven right now.
I love this baking thing-thanks to you guys I found yet another reason why budget lights kick da booday!
Amazing lights. These are the sipik 68 clones from bbqbuy on amazon. 3 mode. I kept the oven on for about an hour-2 on the left (2nd pic) were about 20-30 minutes and the 2 right were about an hour. Thanks for the tips guys!
Oh, and some people on another forum were asking about disassembling the normal Sipik. I read here someone boiled the bezel-do you recommend? I thought that sounded riskyā¦Or should they use a heat gun?
Anyone try using a fryer yet? Or maybe quenching in old motor oil? Iām just wondering if it would pick up carbon and have an effect on the final finish. Just a thought.
Also, has anyone figured out a way to keep some parts very cool while heating others, to achieve a more distinctive difference than the regular fade?
These look awesome. Iām still waiting on my first project or two to arrive, so Iām looking around to see what I can do to make it āmy own.ā
I harbour the belief that body builders putty may allow the destinct design. Itās a putty used to control heat to prevent panel distortion whilst welding. Iāve just not got hold of some to try it yet, or know how to use it - internal or external.
I was thinking of a clay, like the ones some swordmakers use when going for a differential tempering on the blade (think of the jagged appearance of a katana blade). I donāt know if itās the same type of stuff, but I know that a good, high-temperature clay can be made just from kitty litter.
I forget what the clay is called, but itās used in most litters, and is the only ingredient in the really cheap litters. Just grind it up really well, mix with water, and apply. Some people use it to make their first forge. I really think it has potential. If I had a bag oā lights, Iād be willing to be the guinea pig. As it stands, however, Iām still waiting for my first ones to arrive.
PS: Hereās an image of the type of blade I was talking about.
It sounds like similar stuff, as I understand this putty, it acts almost like a fire break, trapping the heat, but I need to look into it. Thereās a well known British body repair suppliers named frost, I believe they keep this stuff in.
This is the stuff, Ā£40 is a bit steep, Iāll have to read up on it.
The problem is (as I see it) that aluminum is a good heat sink. It takes heat well and spreads it to the entire piece. While I donāt doubt itās possible, Iām thinking it will take some combination of methods; and it will have to be pretty precise. Some kind of heat-trapping agent, a method to heat quickly, and a method to cool very quickly. If it was steel I could tell you exactly how to do it, but I am totally ignorant of working with aluminum.
Then again, maybe Iām wrong and weāre on the right track with the putty or clay routine. I think the key would be if someone can figure out the exact temperature at which the anodizing begins to change color. Then all we have to do is come up with a method for heating certain sections to that temperature (and no more) while keeping the rest of it cool ā again, a balancing act. Is anyone capable of measuring the temperature of the piece while itās being heated?
ETA: Anyone have one of those cool touch soldering irons? Iāll bet that it would work at least for creating a camo patternā¦probably.
ETA (again): Or I nearly forgot about this: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/367095-resistance-no-resistance-wire-welder.html Rather than using it to join wires, it could just blast an arc through a small piece of aluminum, quite possibly getting the anodizing hot enough to have the desired effect. May be controllable, to an extent. Again, at least probably good enough for a camo pattern.
ETA (final, I think): Has anyone tried brushing their light with a regular soldering iron? I would think itās hot enough to change the color, at least if you move back and forth or stay on one spot. I would think the pattern would be more controllable than an open flame or oven.