When I am soldering the pos. wire and neg. wire from the emitter to the new driver, there are 3 holes on the driver. Which of the three are the neg, and pos that I need to solder the wires too?
the three holes are holes to recieve the pos and neg. wires correct? as seen here:
Works fine with the little spring. I don't know that you could fit a bigger spring on there which is why they include the little one.
The holes aren't anything. If you look at the first picture in this thread, the positive is a little solder pad on the lower right, marked +. The negative is a little solder pad on the upper left. Those are for the leads that go to the LED.
Here's a picture of a very similar driver with the leads installed:
Good luck on your driver swap! These boards are just ridiculously small and can be really hard to get soldered without burning other components or just missing the pad altogether. Try to test it once you get the leads on before you put the driver in the pill.
When i don't use a spring i put a solder blob on the pad. Be sure to not mess with it and do it quick. Works fine with flat head bateries. It's not a very good approach but i did not had any troubles so far from the solder oxidation yet, You can also use a tiny copper or brass (less oxidation issues) spacer if you so desire but make sure the tailcap have a spring. When doing high currents might be a good idea to avoid the excessively tiny/skinny springs. The normal ones are just fine, trim them if space is lacking. Be sure to not have the trimmed spring scratch the battery, bend the edge to the inside a bit.
Do it reasonably quick and don't overdue the heating. Pointy soldering iron tips are preferred. Good solder with some lead and flux is the best and melt pretty quickly.
just soldered an xml with this driver..first ever..it was really easy..I was impressed with my rookie skills..the leads were not connected on my driver, so I had to solder them on myself..I used a piece of 14 gauge copper wire to make the positive connection to the battery from the srping..it didn't work with just the spring..it was a great time soldering..I really enjoyed it..
as far as the driver function goes I really hate the 2 secs on for mode memory..I have never had a driver like this and it's really backwards to me..hopefully I get used to it..
I don't like it either, but I think all of the NANJG drivers are the same way (I've gotten used to leaving the light on for a couple of seconds whenever I use it). The micro-controller can't remember the mode after you cut power to it, so it remembers it after it has been on for 2 seconds. I like lights that remember the last mode after they are Off for maybe 0.5 to 1 second, but I think you have to have a capacitor or something that will maintain power to the controller after power is cut in order to do that.
I ha the copper wire and didn't like it cus it would change modes when bumped..check out my thread on the spring mod..you can use anything to salvage a spring..I used an old remote control but anything that takes batteries is sure to have a spring in it..
I got this driver (the C-Type) and put it into my "experimental" flashlight (Ultrafire u-80 XML). I used it with two modes
100% was 2800 mA and runs on 2800mAh Soshine for about 50 min, second mode was about 100mA. After the fifty mins of full power it switches back to the lower mode and blinks each 5 seconds.
The brightness was great but it not make sense in my opinion because just 50 mins of runtime is too short. So i decided to make less power by ripping of half of the 7135, and make a 3 mode light.
You can do that, yes. Or, you could spend 10$ to a USB AVR programmer and use it to flash the Atmel chip and get any brightness you want from less than 1 lumens all the way to 800+ lumens. It's not hard and you don't need to ne a computer programmer to do it. I have never written a line on code in my life, but still I was able to flash it using instructions here. There's no going back to factory drivers for me. The lowest mode of those are usually brighter than I want as mid.
I checked the thread and gave up soon. Is there a really simplified guide how to program these chips along with the stuff needed? I would love to program my Ak-47 drivers.