New XM-L Light,, 26650/18650/4xAAA Good Price and 57mm head ......... NOTE: The star is solid aluminium !!! :bigsmile:

Congratulations!

Ya women’s priorities often get in the way of things :zipper_mouth_face:

What are planning on using for the A60 and when you get it out can you measure how thick that little spacer is, I have some thin stuff that might be perfect with a little sanding and forming.

FYI - still not happy with my 57mm head light. :~

I have some thin copper sheeting which I think I can utilize. I'll try to remember to measure the original plastic thickness as well as my copper.

-Garry

I keep trying to figure something out to make me like this light! So yesterday I decided that I would put in a XRE Q5 that was collecting dust. Thats when i figured out that the pcb on the Q5 was to thin compared to the orgional XML. It had a horrible beam with any of the LED’s i have installed in this light orgionally tried to put in a XML U2 and it had a hole in the hot spot, same thing with the XRE. Finally I put the orgional XML back in and left off the centering/isolator ring and put the dang 4 aaa hold in and it is the best light has ever been.

26650 flat tops wont work it will just randomly change modes

Final conclusion on this light is “Pain In the ASS” - good for a 4aaa light and that is all it will ever be to me, probably will give it away when the opportunity arises!

Thought it had potential - Kind of reminds me of my Dallas Cowboys more especially the “new” # 88

I have been running mine on 4 AAAs and its somewhere around 385 lumens, still throwy and still nice. This is one of my super-keepers! Plus, its so light(weight) on AAAs.

Same thoughts on mine. I haven't got around to modding mine (putting a slug in the hollow pill), so I only run it on AAA's and it's still quite impressive. I'm sure I just happened to get a good sample. Hopefully the second one I have coming is as good.

-Garry

Just received my second one of these today. Fit and finish looks just as good as the first. Haven't put batteries in it nor have I checked under the emitter board (but I expect the same scenario). I intend this one for gifting.

-Garry

Just wonder if anybody tried 2x16340 (8.2v?) if it would kill the light? Since I tried with 2 cr123s (3v) and it’s as bright as 4XAAA.

I wouldn’t

Just tried it with 2 16340s. They get real hot in under 1 minute. They light is really bright. A bit brighter than a full 26650 or 4xAAA. Too bad the heat fins don’t dissipate heat as much has the handle does. Oh any anybody have links to those 4xAAA holders? I want to try 3 of them in my TR-J12.

Any hints where to buy? The seller from post 1 don’t delivers to germany.
I need perhaps a light driven with AA or aaa.
I can only find this one http://www.ebay.de/itm/12W-High-Power-1800-lm-CREE-XM-L-T6-LED-18650-26650-AAA-Flashlight-Torch-5-Modes-/300782608777?pt=AU_Sport_Camping_Hiking_Lamps_Torches&hash=item46080a6189#ht_218wt_1000
And it’s driven with just 3aaa.

Yep that’s it.

Ordered one!
Can somebody compare it with HD2010?

Easy. Less throw, less total output. Significantly so. A bit of modding can improve the situation, but it’s best to just think of this light as a reasonably throwy middle-of-the-road light that distinguishes itself by being AAA compatible.

I can’t do a meaningful beam shot comparison because I’ve modded my HD2010 with a T6 3C. Perhaps someone else can.

So, this model is between good quality C8s T6 and HD2010.
Off course, the Small Suns are better but the price I paid (16.80:money_mouth_face: is unbeatable.
New best vfm for me?

My brother has this light( not rdrfronty. My other brother ) and any respectable xml c8 would kill his, both in total output and throw. I am not hating on the light , it’s just that the output on his is very disappointing. It is a great looking light but just doesn’t live up to what we expected it to do.

With the right mods this light hangs with and probably beats most C8 lights, but yeah, definitely not as it comes.

Comparison with Keygos M10?

Seems like a HD2010 killer, for the money.

From the factory its probably half as much throw as the hd2010. I get around 25-29k lux on the meter where as my hd2010 gets around 55k. Unfortunately its a little disappointing in that way but its a nice light since it runs on 4aaa’s. needs modding to be a better light though.

I tried to run this light with 4 lithium aaa and it doesn’t switches on the first 20 times…really weird.
I have to switch it on and off, it just gives a short flash but after some dozen switches it stays on…
I think that is because of the higher voltage of the lithium cells…too sad I wanted to put it in my car.
I let it run for 15 minutes, but after it isn’t used for some hours I have to redo the procedure…

I just modded one of these lights for Rusty Joe. Here's a summary:

  • XM-L2 U2 1A on a 20mm Noctigon with the Noctigon reflowed onto a copper round to make up a pill top, Arctic epoxied in place
  • custom programmed Nanjg at 3.5A: Hi-Med-Lo. Used a brass 20mm to 17mm adapter. The adapter was press fit in by using a metal chisel to make notch's in the alum pill inner rim to give the fitting a "bite"
  • got a LED alignment piece off of AliExpress that fit perfect, and gently sanded backside of reflector to give enough clearance for the wire connections
  • used a better, slightly longer + spring, copper braided. Stock spring was twisted out of shape.
  • tailcap - stock has major loss's, about 1/2 the lumens is lost there after mods. Poorly designed switch assembly, the type with the tab sticking out the side to contact the housing. After a few attempt at replacing the switch, and add copper braiding, still couldn't improve it. So, I had a stock C8/HD2010 type switch pre-mounted on a PC board - had to file it down to fit (trick is angle file it so the soldered switch terminals don't make contact with the housing - light would always be ON). It has a large, slightly longer spring. So all I had to do was, on the retaining aluminum ring, cut out the center hole larger to clear the spring, and copper braid the spring. The brass cap over the spring is eliminated with this mod.

After the tailcap mod, lumens went up to even slightly exceed what I measured with a simple jumper wire across the battery "-" end and the body, so all loss's in the tailcap were negated!

I tried it with several 26650’s and 18650’s. Best ones are the KK button top ICR 4000 26650, Panasonic PD 18650, KeepPower 3400, and TrustFire 5000 26650. All those cells did about the same lumens. Here’s the measurements using a fresh KK button top ICR 4000:

Lumens: 1,292 at start, 1,258 at 30 secs

Throw: 64.5 kcd measured at 5 meters

These numbers are really nice for a light this size (bigger than a C8, smaller than a HD2010), and running at 3.5A (actually I can measure 3.6A) without an AR lens, specially the throw.