Trick for the clip is to put the inside piece in place, align it, then hold it in place with your thumb over the back of the torch. Then put one screw half way in with the clip in place. After that bring the clip against the body and adjust until the hole on the other side is aligned enough to get the second screw in. Bring the screws in at the same time, only doing the final tightening after its all together.
My clips go on without any problems, well I've never had any problems. Except with Ti ones where the threads on the screw are too soft.
Speaking of piston throw, I personally like short throw pistons! haha, personal preference here, but I like it shorter so that it activates more easily, I find the SP ones far too long to my liking.
grinding the o-ring is very much like filing the firing pin! lol.
Boaz, you should not have the popping sensation on the piston at all, having it means you have alot of oil/grease/lube on the flat part of your piston.
These are extreme cases, but it shows where the grease/oil/lube problem area is. You can see the stock nitecore blue grease with the suction lines where it presses against the body. This area and the corresponding part of the body must be FREE of grease/oil/lube to prevent the popping feeling of the switch, and to reduce activation force. You can also see my ground down o-ring, slightly more flush with the button part.
Plus, I dont recommend a grease, I recommend a thin oil for the o-ring becasue a double tap requires a smooth frictionless piston. Any friction slows the return of the piston and makes it significantly harder to activate. Also make sure your lubricant doesnt dissolve the o-rings! that just makes the o-ring fat and worsens everything.
The above piston is for a D10 tribute. In the EX10, the flat area is even bigger and has even more effect.
I actually put the clip in place , put in a screw [ one side only ] then put the small retainer [ threaded part that goes inside next to the clicky ] on , using the one screw to line it up , then put the screw in part way [ still lose ] and then put in the other screw ..
Lube = I cleaned most of it of , 99% removed .. I will [ used to call it lapping ] lap the O ring gently with wet and dry , as it is a rather tight fit [ I guess to make it water proof ]
Thanks for the review!! Can someone help me understand how this light can have the same light output on high with both a CR123 and a RCR123 but less runtime on the RCR123?
In a regulated light, shouldn’t we see more runtime out of the higher voltage rcr123 than in a primary cr123 (or am I missing something)?
High = 143L @ now this was interesting , started about 1.2A and as the light was on , climbed to 3A holding output at 143L , I suspect this was due to voltage sag under load , so better quality CR123A Primaries may do much better .
Med = 38L @ 0.2A
Low = 3L @ 0.01A
If your talking about the Nitecore Description ? [ id say an error on there part ] and its not fully regulated [ not at 4.2v ] , with a Primary it might be to 50% battery capacity ..
But with a 4.2v battery as the cell is depleted , output drops .
Now unless you run a good protected cell , this could be troublesome .. [ At least with the Akoray - Programable lights - you can set it to the battery you run , Primary or rechargeable 4.2v ] With the Nitecore , if the protection does not kick in , you could kill the battery .
Something to be said for the cheap Chinese lights that dont run primaries ...
But for those folk who do run Primaries , the Nitecore just might be the bees knees .
Thank for the additional detail. So there is an output difference when using a rcr123 vs. a cr123…that would explain the shorter runtime on the rcr. Everywhere I see this light discussed, I see the reported output on high listed as the same on both cr123 and rcr123 and that was confusing to me as the runtime on the primary is listed as longer. So I’m happy to see the increase in output using the rcr123 yet still decent runtime. I just reread your review and saw that you did list the difference in output…sorry I missed that initially and thanks for taking the time to write that out again.
I may have to snatch 1 up from Boaz as this is my favorite light configuration. I have the D10 and really like the UI on this light.
The Nitecore torches run regulated above 1.3v, so any voltage above this will give the same regulated output. Current draw will be adjusted according to the battery voltage. Therefore the voltage of the battery cell is not relevant in this torch, only the energy density of the cell.
Our RCRs have up to 700mA capacity at 3.7 volts. = 2.5 watts
CR123s have up to 1500mA capacity at 3.0 volts. = 4.5 watt
Even if it was 1000mA capacity at 3.0 volts = 3.0 watts
So the RCR is fundamentally a lower energy source, and accordingly will give shorter runtimes for the same output.
thank you for that detail…I appreciate it. I got mixed up and was thinking of how the li-on 14500 has more energy than the primary AA batteries…I forgot that is not the case when it comes to li-on 16340 compared to cr123 primaries.
Hey Old4570 I got my NiteCore EX10 SP from Boaz as well and i'm not being picky or anything but you have made a mistake in the discription. I assume you copied from NiteCore without reading for yourself but this part is incorrect "Unique Infinitely Variable Digital-controlled Brightness System; Quick direct access min & max brightness" The EX10 Smart PD has low, medium, and high...not Infinitely Variable and there is quick access to strobe and SOS Not min and max modes.
I just wanted to type out the difference so people that don't own this light can see the difference. (I know you obiviously know the difference)
Other than that little boo boo great review as always. I really like mine alot and like you said a wee bit of tweaking to get the piston tension how you prefer it and just be careful with unprotected RCR123's and all is good.
Yep, the original EX10/D10 ramp up and down continuosly. I think a lot of people missed the ramping so they came out with a retro model (forgot what they called it). I had one of the EX10's that way (traded it for a NW Quark) and now have a ramping D10.
I'm curious if these new ones are PMW or current regulated. PMW isn't an issue on mine, just wondering if they changed it.
I think that script is from the ramping version of the EX10 (and D10) that proceeded this version. I was confused reading the review too, as I thought maybe you had the older ramping version.
No PWM with this one .... Yeah I wasnt sure ... I will edit the post ... .. [ checked with digital camera PWM ]
Update , the DX 10 is some what battery challenged , I started of by using my AW 16340's as they have sat around doing nothing for the last 12 months or so , but then I thought , I should try out a few other cells . I started with the Trustfire [Flame] protected , and its too long for the light to work . Grey protected 16340 and Grey Trustfire protected are aslo to long , in fact anything longer than a Primary CR123A will induce greater force into the clicky action as the cell is longer , it looks like you need very short Protected cells or unprotected cells . Sorry guys , been bussy with school , or I would have checked sooner .
Guys , I should have been clearer ... My bad ... Left it a little open maybe , though I did say modes , Hi med Lo , but I should have not left any doubt ... Fixed now . [ re Modes ]
Unfortunately during the week im in School "mode" [ IT Course ] and this week my brain was wrapped around VB [ Visual Basic ] and wasnt that fun .
