thats nice… i like how you saved the knurling on it the way you did. only thing i would have done different (no lathe and no skill with one, so no room to talk really ) is save the side switch… but im sure whatever you have in store is going to be amazing
also, now that i think of it… if you did save the side switch, you wouldnt have been able to keep the knurling the way you did, so i guess its a catch 22 on that one
The 1D can be done with or without the side switch. The overall length changes since the switch stays, but it can still be done. The knurling can still be there, but it would not be as balanced as it is this way. It is, as they say, "doable". The OAL of the knurled section is (if memory serves), about 75mm, which works out ok, for either a 3 or 4AA holder or a 26650. The space between the knurl and the switch is (about 20mm??), so it would mean cutting right at the back end of the knurl, for proper OAL with a Std tail cap (which is about 40mm deep with spring compression). I've slept since then, so I may be wrong.
Of course, people are noticing just how many Maglites are standing in the background, in that "hand photo". Looks like he's got a good start on a run of them.
The balanced looks resulting from the non-knurled band on the tailcap end…man!
I have access to some good machinery but I’ve never attempted cutting threads. If this was a class I’d be frantically taking down notes.
As soon as I saw title and author I had to read this. Really nice work CX. If you milled down a section of the tube, could Justin do a woody inlay? Then you could have a side switch and eliminate the knurling altogether.