Those are constant current drivers. They will output whatever voltage is needed to cause 350 mA or 1A to flow into the LED. They can output voltages up to the input voltage minus around 2 volts. Thos particular drivers have a bridge rectifier and filter cap on the input. You can drive them with either AC or DC. That 10W one is good to about 30V in.
A 3S pack could output 9V if it is near empty. You need 4S to have enough headroom to drive the array.
Because I am trying to use about 10W, 1A from 3 or 4 18650 cells.
Maybe the latest XML could handle it but it would be pushing it too hard, no?
I have a 3 x XML light using 2 18650 cells at 2A and 4A modes. My cells are recycled from laptop packs, so 1A is probably much more realistic. Better ones can handle 2A but wouldn’t last.
I suppose I could push 1A for about 4W max into a single XML or something like that.
Hmmmm, maybe that is the way to go. Simpler.
I will have to check what is the max power rating for XML. I though I read some place it is 1A-2A range.
I am having a hard time finding MT-G2. Also I am trying to keep it a low budget little experiment.
I can find XML T6 on usual sites like dx and ft, etc.
I’ve tried a couple 12V/10W emitters, similar to what you linked, but from DX.
IMO, the only reason to use them instead of Cree emitters (since they offer emitters with 3.x, 6, 9, 12, an even higher Vf) is because they’re very floody
sometimes that’s useful, particularly in an area type light, like say lighting a yard, dock, or in your case, a room.
xm-l is pretty floody though, but if lumens/Watt is more important than a very floody beam profile, go with xm-l, since they’re a bit more efficient.
using a single 12V emitter could simplify the project, if you figure out the right driver
here’s a good reference for finding them. it isn’t all inclusive, but if you email Ian (he’s also a member here), he does update the info
I looked at it last night, but was confused about switched. In the comments someone suggested switches rated at 1.5A but driver is well over 2A.
I didn’t feel comfortable with higher current while my and other listed switches are rated for 1-1.5A
Input current is ~1A at 12V, so if you’d switch input, not output (switching output on such driver, actually, is not recommended at all!) you’d be fine.