I use these Trustfire batteries in all my powerful 26650 size lights. They are simply great and afford the maximum runtime. I’ve only purchased them from Manafont and also have 3 more Trustfires on the way, which will live with the Skyray 9T6 exclusively, and should arrive this week. Just be careful you are not purchasing fakes, as they can be dangerous in a powerful light like this.
Do you have a caliper? Measure one of your batteries and then we can tell Richie if they would be the ones to get.
Sure thing FM.
I was getting 68.78 mm long or 2.70 inches for each battery, but I had to use a piece of tape on the positive to keep from shorting the battery, so they are slightly shorter in length. I did get 25.91 mm wide or 1.02 inches, which is exactly what the Manafont specs call out. I thought it was a good idea to actually show how 3 x 26650 Trustfires sit in the Skyray 9 and Trustfire J12 also.
Skyray 9 x T6
Trustfire TR-J12
Trustfire 26650 5000mAh (real ones)
OK so i did the same for you with my protected Keeppowers.
So three of them stick out this much from the end tube
So there you go.
I would suggest getting the trustfire flames, or a protected type of King Kong if you can find them anymore.
Here is how much i cannot screw the cap down
Hope this helps!
Soshine 26650 are okay too 68mm long
My head doesn’t unscrew I have tried this sometimes, perhaps am I not wrong enough and I will not make scratches in it with tools…
updated with inside the head shots.
Hey FMCamaro, I’m amazed at how long those Keeppower batteries are and how far they are sticking out. Yeah, if possible, get a set of the Trustfires from Manafont. They’ve been performing fantastic and seem to fit everything I’ve been installing them in.
Since this light is so easy to mod, I’m looking into upgrading the driver to the KD 9 LED Series Circuit Board. I have an email into them to see if they can reprogram it as a 5-mode rather than the 3-mode (no blinkies of course.) I’m getting 4amps on HIGH mode as is, but I don’t really know how much more the KD driver will put out, but I’ll give it a try and let everyone know.
I saw that too. The only problem I see with that is that it lowers current as you approach 60C. Stock that only takes 10 mins to get there. I can’t imagine at the power that thing puts out… you can probably only run it for like 45 seconds!
Let me know though. I’m interested!
Let the light run on high for a few mins. It unscrews real easy then. I did it with my hands. There’s only a small amount of thermal paste holding the parts together. Just watch when you are unscrewing that the reflector does not move. You may accidentally break the leads.
I know this is a 7x T6, but has 4, 26650s, looks kind of like a Updated Tr 3T6.
So does anyone own one of these?
I know some have it on this forum. Best to check out the thread we have for it. I’m sure it’ll answer any questions you may have about it.
I didn’t bother removing the bezel on mine, but I did remove the collar holding down the driver before unscrewing the head. I figured there wouldn’t be any chance of twisting up the wires to the driver with it hanging out of the head. Hard to believe all this current is going through those two little wires.
Tried just before I posted to unscrew it, cold or hot no difference used a towel also. perhaps I have screwed it too fast in when I screwed the other parts together…
I don’t want to change the driver either, until we can get some mini nuclear reactors for powering it….
Edit tried again with some work gloves with latex on them, very easy too unscrew now. Mine has a big drop of the thermal grease on the inside. LOL
Wondering why there is void room next to the FET…
Data sheet from Fet http://vfiles.cizgi.com.tr/tagem/dms_dosya/1800/p0903bdg.pdf
Cables are 26awg orawg28 can’t read it good, to thin in every case…
nice pics of the innards
is the surface that the emitters sit on an integral part of the head? Almost looks like it isn’t…and it is a plate that they fujik’d into the head?
No its one solid piece. Its all anodized and everything.
I’m new to all this and have no knowledge of modding…Sorry.
Would this allow the light to be brighter by regulating the flow of electricity more efficiently?
I doubt that driver is more efficient (but it could be) - the big difference is it draws more power (if batteries are capable) and delivers more power to the leds.
I recently purchased one of these from RIC (still in route), and every time I get one of these multi-LED lights that use 26650 cells, the cell stack is either too tall (all protected cells)or too short (unprotected cells) for the body. My question to the battery guru’s on the site, do all the cells need to be protected? Logic tells me, as long as one is protected, the others don’t need to be. As long as the base cell is the same for all three, the one protected cell effectively protects all the cells and flashlight internals from damage due under voltage, over current, etc. Once the protected cell trips, the whole assembly will shut down regardless. Is this true?