Review: Nitecore EX10

The Nitecore torches run regulated above 1.3v, so any voltage above this will give the same regulated output. Current draw will be adjusted according to the battery voltage. Therefore the voltage of the battery cell is not relevant in this torch, only the energy density of the cell.

Our RCRs have up to 700mA capacity at 3.7 volts. = 2.5 watts

CR123s have up to 1500mA capacity at 3.0 volts. = 4.5 watt

Even if it was 1000mA capacity at 3.0 volts = 3.0 watts

So the RCR is fundamentally a lower energy source, and accordingly will give shorter runtimes for the same output.

thank you for that detail…I appreciate it. I got mixed up and was thinking of how the li-on 14500 has more energy than the primary AA batteries…I forgot that is not the case when it comes to li-on 16340 compared to cr123 primaries.

Hey Old4570 I got my NiteCore EX10 SP from Boaz as well and i'm not being picky or anything but you have made a mistake in the discription. I assume you copied from NiteCore without reading for yourself but this part is incorrect "Unique Infinitely Variable Digital-controlled Brightness System; Quick direct access min & max brightness" The EX10 Smart PD has low, medium, and high...not Infinitely Variable and there is quick access to strobe and SOS Not min and max modes.

I just wanted to type out the difference so people that don't own this light can see the difference. (I know you obiviously know the difference)

Other than that little boo boo great review as always. I really like mine alot and like you said a wee bit of tweaking to get the piston tension how you prefer it and just be careful with unprotected RCR123's and all is good.

What they mean , I think ? Is that by holding the button/clicky down you can infinately cycle through the modes ... I think ...

I dont know if there is a EX10 with ramping ? But yeah , I copied from Nitecore web site , and it was the only description available .

Yep, the original EX10/D10 ramp up and down continuosly. I think a lot of people missed the ramping so they came out with a retro model (forgot what they called it). I had one of the EX10's that way (traded it for a NW Quark) and now have a ramping D10.

I'm curious if these new ones are PMW or current regulated. PMW isn't an issue on mine, just wondering if they changed it.

I think that script is from the ramping version of the EX10 (and D10) that proceeded this version. I was confused reading the review too, as I thought maybe you had the older ramping version.

No PWM with this one .... Yeah I wasnt sure ... I will edit the post ... .. [ checked with digital camera PWM ]

Update , the DX 10 is some what battery challenged , I started of by using my AW 16340's as they have sat around doing nothing for the last 12 months or so , but then I thought , I should try out a few other cells . I started with the Trustfire [Flame] protected , and its too long for the light to work . Grey protected 16340 and Grey Trustfire protected are aslo to long , in fact anything longer than a Primary CR123A will induce greater force into the clicky action as the cell is longer , it looks like you need very short Protected cells or unprotected cells . Sorry guys , been bussy with school , or I would have checked sooner .

The Ramping one has a couple hundred levels of brightness in later models, but are rare as 4 leaf clovers now.

I believe nitecore uses PWM, but in the 1Khz+ range.

Guys , I should have been clearer ... My bad ... Left it a little open maybe , though I did say modes , Hi med Lo , but I should have not left any doubt ... Fixed now . [ re Modes ]

Unfortunately during the week im in School "mode" [ IT Course ] and this week my brain was wrapped around VB [ Visual Basic ] and wasnt that fun .

Yeah, I remember my Trusfire (gray w/black lettering) RCR123's were too long for my ramping EX10. I ended up trading it.

I have 4 AW's and 4 Good generic Unprotected cells [ Ebay ] + A few more [ recent culling thinned the heard of 16340 ] RCR123A .

The Blue and white solarforce cells are fantastic , but simply wont fit as there even longer than the Trustfires .

This is correct...it is PWM but it is the fastest I have ever seen, it is next to impossible to detect with the eye but if you try to see it and know what you are looking for you can make yourself see it. Without trying very very hard to see it it is absolutely undetectable.

New ones are the D11/ EX11. Slightly different externals, internally fundamentally similar or close, but what is a little different is the UI.

New one (D11/EX11) is a Ramping with shortcuts to Strobe and SOS (and a digital lockout function). Fundamentally its the SP model, but with ramping brightness instead of the 3 mode cycle. Press and hold to ramp up, press and hold again to ramp the other way.

Personally I don't like the newer version because it takes a whole 4 seconds or something to ramp from min to max and back the other way. Takes too long if you wanted moonlight from max.. The SP is a far more practical model (as sold by boaz)

The Old ramping model does not have any strobe or SOS hidden modes, nor does it have digital lockout. What it has are shortcuts to high and low.

Cells that are too long (trustfires) dont really work in the EX10/EX11. The trustfire flames I was using only needed an additional 0.5mm of space, which the normal 1mm spring wire thickness was taking up. You need shorter cells, or for mine, I made a new shorter spring that sits within the depression at the bottom of the piston with some 0.7mm SS wire. Its a little tricky, but after a few attempts I got mine to work.

I Dont like the feel of the piston with the mod though... Just not right to me. (im expecting close to perfection haha!)

Does the D11 have the double click high/double click hold for low? A slower ramp would be great for the low range on the old style, but the double clicking options are invaluable.

I think the strobe/SOS shortcuts replace the maximum/minimum shortcuts of the D10 / EX10.

The ramping speed of the D11/EX11 isnt that much better in the low range, however the loss of the shortcuts to high/low are the whole reason I DISLIKE the new model. Its really impractical now, fancy, but not actually functional anymore.

Other problem with the new model is the parasitic drain. The older D10/EX10 circuit has between 0.5-2mA parasitic drain, the newer circuit has at least 6-8mA drain, some maybe more. That means you will be flattening batteries in a week or two.

Air tool oil seems to work pretty good as a lube for the oring a lot easier smoother action. Used them in paintball guns where theres high air pressure.

Good idea, I still have some of that synthetic lube for my Kingman. Thought about using Astroglide too, but need a little feedback Foot in mouth.

Hi there, okwchin. How do you know this light has a "parasitic drain"? Would like to check all my lights if one of them suffer the same thing :~

It has parasitic drain becasue the switching is electronic. The piston presses onto the circuit, creating a momentary electrical connection. This tells the circuit to turn on.

But to do this type of switching, the circuit always needs to be on so that its ready and waiting for you to press the switch, and therefore slowly drains the battery. The Parasitic drain of the nitecore 10 series give you a years battery life in the off state. The 11 series gives you about a month or a couple weeks worth (which is Very bad). Its all dependent on the electronic design, and the battery source.

If your torch uses a normal clicky switch, or is a twisty torch, you will not have parasitic drain because the switch physically disconnects the battery from the circuit.

Most budget lights will not have parasitic drain issues becasue they are switched mechanically. This is becasue its generally cheaper to install a switch, than to incorporate a more complicated switching mechanism.