Review: Sky Ray 9xT6 - The King of HOT Rods?

No its one solid piece. Its all anodized and everything.

I’m new to all this and have no knowledge of modding…Sorry.

Would this allow the light to be brighter by regulating the flow of electricity more efficiently?

I doubt that driver is more efficient (but it could be) - the big difference is it draws more power (if batteries are capable) and delivers more power to the leds.

I recently purchased one of these from RIC (still in route), and every time I get one of these multi-LED lights that use 26650 cells, the cell stack is either too tall (all protected cells)or too short (unprotected cells) for the body. My question to the battery guru’s on the site, do all the cells need to be protected? Logic tells me, as long as one is protected, the others don’t need to be. As long as the base cell is the same for all three, the one protected cell effectively protects all the cells and flashlight internals from damage due under voltage, over current, etc. Once the protected cell trips, the whole assembly will shut down regardless. Is this true?

Not true, because cells are always different.
If you have 3 cells one could have less capacity or less charged so this cell will get over discharged when it is not protected.

Only thing one protected could do is to prevent from shorting the circuit.

hence i feel safer using it in 18650 format , has anyone on here ever had one that blew up in their hands ? :stuck_out_tongue:

yeah a 9x or 12x led in skyray king type setup would be nice but mayb too hot or chunky to hold with 4x 26650. i feel the sky ray king is already perfect fit for me unless you are 2 meters tall with massive hands i dont think u want to hold anything bigger then skyray king. :slight_smile:

I can’t believe I placed an order for this driver. I must be nuts to want to do this to an already super bright flood monster that took out my Trustfire TR-J12 in a beam comparision.

I did ask if this 9X driver can be reprogrammed for better modes like some of their others, 100–75–50–30–10%, but I was told this particular driver can’t be and must remain as a 3-mode, but luckily no flashy modes. They are going to upgrade the driver at some point to the modes I listed and with no blinkies of course. I wasn’t given a time table for when that’ll happen.

Take pictures of how you mod it and let us know how hot it gets!

…Because i want to do the same mod!

Will do with before and after beam shots too.

My light comes in tomorrow. Please let us know how that works out for you. I am definitely interested in doing that mod.

Christmas special on wallbuys 9xt6 for 50$

It looks like its a trustfire, and this one is a skyray.

Is there any difference in brightness between using 3 18650’s and 3 26650’s in this light?

I got mine today but I am still waiting on my 26650’s to arrive so I threw some trustfire 18650’s in there to try it out. HOLY MOLY ITS BRIGHT! Im hoping it will be even brighter with the 26650’s.

Not that i could notice, no.

But my testing was done with Panasonic 3100’s protected. I cant vouch for the trustfires.

Decreased run time I’m sure.

Thank you for the very detailed review! :slight_smile:

Awesome, I’ve been gone for several months and within 10 minutes I find something calling my name to order lol. :money_mouth_face:

Just wondering if you have a suggestion for a copper slug to use? Since I will be re-wiring mine , I figure it couldn’t hurt to add some better heatsinking and I liked your idea. Also, does anyone have a suggestion for what type of wire to use to re-wire this thing?

If you look at the back of where the leds are mounted, you will see that its just a recessed cavity and the LEDS sit on a “shelf” that is only max 1/4” thick. You would need a custom made piece of copper ideally that would fit into that hole as thick as you could make it.

I don’t have my light near me right now but I’d be willing to bet you can make that 1”+ and it would help in taking the heat off the leds a bit better. It would also make the head HEAVY.

I haven’t done that to mine, to be honest.

As for wire - the stuff on there is pretty cheap. Its probably not marked but I’d be willing to bet its somewhere in the 30+ AWG area. The biggest flexible wire you can comfortably fit on there is only going to help you. Especially if you thinking of upgrading the driver.

It looks like the wire on mine is labeled. It is 28 AWG and rated at 150º C. I count 7 strands. I was planning on replacing it with this 20 AWG silver plated, teflon coated 19 strand wire. It appears to be the same wire that jufran was selling, and that would mean an outer diameter of 1.46 mm compared to the current ~1.2 mm outer diameter wire on there. Thankfully not much bigger and rated to 200ºC.

If the copper slug has to be custom made, it sounds a bit more time consuming/expensive than it would be worth. However, if I find out where to submit small orders for custom machining, I might do this. I was thinking about replacing the LED’s with some neutral white T6-3C ones too, but it would cost ~37$ for the LED’s, plus the ~6$ fujik to mount them. Is there any reason why the stock T6 1A cool white LED’s can’t be swapped out for these?

I figure I’ll have to use these plastic insulation gaskets that came with the light…:

But I was considering using these as a replacement. I don’t know if they’ll fit, but I figure it’s worth a shot.

Anyway, if I get a functional driver, do these LED’s seem like a suitable replacement? I would really love a crazy neutral white flooder like this.

I am not sure if the LEDwiring must be changed but the wiring from driver to led has to be replaced for sure to awg 16 or thicker…
I am unsure about a led swap, 36$ to mod a 60$ flashlight…?