33696933 - Wow! That was fast! Dunno about the DRY - single or multi LED? Was the form factor the same for mounting? Height the same? What's the tint comparable to warmer or cooler than a T6 3C? Can you notice brightness diff or can you do a ceiling bounce test w/meter?
Sorry - lots of Q's... You are the first one known to get, see, and install these things...
Ok, maybe this evening you can see how it does in brightness? From the specs for a T6, was expecting it to be at a U3 level - 2 bins higher, probably somewhat difficult to see, though in a 3 LED DRY, maybe it would be more pronounced. Also, there was speculation it will be easier to dedome tham the standard XML's - wondering about that...
Should get mine in a couple of days, chose USPS shipping.
Nice! Was hoping it would be noticeable. I'll be getting a lightbox in soon (maybe a few weeks) to do lumens testing from a good source, though got the light meter already. I only got 3 of these LED's coming in, but can do before/after ceiling bounce tests. Interesting to see how it does between throwers and standard lights like a C8. Actually got a brass C8 pill that it would be perfect for - I'm running a U3 1C now in the stock pill, KD V2 driver at 3.8A. If I build up the brass pill with the XM-L2 T6 with the same driver mod, same star, I can swap pills easy - would be interesting.
Crap! should have ordered more - working on mod upgrades now, but 3C tints are not for everyone's taste. Can always order 1/2 dozen more... Not certain about the removal/replacement, but I think you just use the iron w/wide tip and heat the star from below. To put the new one on, apply a little more solder to the 3 lans, then same thing - heat up from below. Did this once to reseat an emitter - seemed to work. I know their are postings on this somewhere here on BLF...
Thanks for the macro pictures, I'm guessing it will be harder to dedome. Sadly the days of direct mounting to copper are over, I guess it is time to stock up on some U3s.
If you look at the top of it there aren't any solder pads. This means there is no way to solder it directly to copper (without getting complicated) and still have access to power it up.
I haven’t had time to play with the XML2 yet, but I have a few dozen of them that showed up Friday from mouser… That said, I wouldn’t be surprised if you could solder to the metal under the silicone at the corners/edges…