the dry is multi (3). it looks similar to a 3c to me
Noticeably brighter or the same?
Ok, maybe this evening you can see how it does in brightness? From the specs for a T6, was expecting it to be at a U3 level - 2 bins higher, probably somewhat difficult to see, though in a 3 LED DRY, maybe it would be more pronounced. Also, there was speculation it will be easier to dedome tham the standard XML's - wondering about that...
Should get mine in a couple of days, chose USPS shipping.
tint wise it looks similar but brighter
Nice! Was hoping it would be noticeable. I'll be getting a lightbox in soon (maybe a few weeks) to do lumens testing from a good source, though got the light meter already. I only got 3 of these LED's coming in, but can do before/after ceiling bounce tests. Interesting to see how it does between throwers and standard lights like a C8. Actually got a brass C8 pill that it would be perfect for - I'm running a U3 1C now in the stock pill, KD V2 driver at 3.8A. If I build up the brass pill with the XM-L2 T6 with the same driver mod, same star, I can swap pills easy - would be interesting.
Crap! should have ordered more - working on mod upgrades now, but 3C tints are not for everyone's taste. Can always order 1/2 dozen more... Not certain about the removal/replacement, but I think you just use the iron w/wide tip and heat the star from below. To put the new one on, apply a little more solder to the 3 lans, then same thing - heat up from below. Did this once to reseat an emitter - seemed to work. I know their are postings on this somewhere here on BLF...
Can you post a few macro photos of them?
For some reason, that looks… delicious.
I’m thinking if that thing is even dedomable? is the dome silicon or plastic? are the wires thicker than a regular xml?
Like sponge cake? 
it does look kinda tasty
i can’t wait to see what it looks like w/ an aspheric - seems to be more uniform…but maybe that’s just the pic
i just want to bite it too* :D
*or install it in small sun zy-t08 which is on the way here
I dont know if its me but I seem to have problems driving it at higher currents
Yikes - it's not achieving the higher current levels?
not sure but i think I need to relax for a bit before I try again
Thanks for the macro pictures, I'm guessing it will be harder to dedome. Sadly the days of direct mounting to copper are over, I guess it is time to stock up on some U3s.
please explain, i am confused
If you look at the top of it there aren't any solder pads. This means there is no way to solder it directly to copper (without getting complicated) and still have access to power it up.
I haven’t had time to play with the XML2 yet, but I have a few dozen of them that showed up Friday from mouser… That said, I wouldn’t be surprised if you could solder to the metal under the silicone at the corners/edges…
Has high cri also at the lower colors.