mini c8

Will take pictures as soon as I have a bit of natural light in my room.

Theoretically, you should be able to push everything out from the back. Try to put the head lens down on a table and push a metal rod onto the driver board and hope that you don't need so much pressure that the reflector breaks. If that fails, don't try to wedge the lens out from the edge, you'll only scratch the anodization. Just poke a hole in the middle and pull it out with the corkscrew from a swiss army knife.

To repair it, you could cut out some plastic from a CD case or something else and sand it round until it press-fits.

I just tried putting the reflector on top of an XR-E in another flashlight and saw that the beam is crap... The led doesn't reach far enough inside the reflector. If you want to use the stock reflector, you'd have to remove the bottom of it.

Or rather, when did they start knurling plastic?

Like I promised (click to enlarge):

i didn’t break mine. I put a dollop of hot glue on it and after it hardened I grabbed that with pliers and yanked it out. Might as well use a decent lens though…they’re only a couple bucks.

1/2” copper cap is almost perfect. I have a piece of rod I put inside and then I tap the cap with a hammer to flatten it (they’re a little domed). The cap might be a little long but if you have a grinder that’s an easy fix.

1/2” caps will also take a 17mm driver, but you have to open them up just a bit (I usually trim the driver a little too, since that’s easier).

Awesome pics Steve! Are you going to put a different driver/emitter back in yours? I am assuming that the little plastic cylinder/pill just presses into the head?

Yeah, that plastic piece is just pushed inside the head.

I'm not enirely sure what to do with it. I have a spare 17mm boost driver flying around, and the idea with the copper cap and TIR optic sounds tempting

if you try it, only put adhesive around the lip - anything that touches the sides of the tir will effect the beam - even clear hot glue :stuck_out_tongue:

Probably the whole bottom lip right? So that it would set flat on the star?

if I remember correctly, even more than that, because there is a neck in the bottom of the reflector that the original LED sticks up into

if you have calipers to measure it with, I’m sure you can find an aluminum one that is FAR superior

I think so. And for an XR-E you'd also have to drill out the hole in the reflector to accommodate the led.

Is the TIR necessary? I would rather get a standard lens from kd and just use regular optics unless it would be easier with a TIR and I could still get throw and not flood out of it. Sorry but I know nothing about TIR optics.

Also from KD?

Reflector measurements

Diameter: 20 mm

Height: 14 mm

Do you guys think that this driver would be ok? And would a 10440 push it safely? Or should I stay with something closer to what it has and just run AAA?

http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S003256

I have a few of these if someone wants me to ship them to them.

TIR is not necessary - just happened to be laying on my bench when i was messing w/ the light.

KD has small reflectors - also dealextreme and cnqualitygoods.

http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=1409
http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=1407
http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=1381
http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=1378
same as uf2011 http://dx.com/p/18mm-12mm-aluminum-textured-op-reflector-for-cree-led-emitters-4-pack-14598

lens might fit?
http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S020793

edit - you’ll need a way to prevent shorting the emitter solder joints together if you use those reflectors (plastic centering ring, spacer, etc.)

oh, and I think around 500mah is about as high as I’d go for current, and I’d stay with AAA. save the 10440 for something w/ better heatsinking.

So technically the stock driver at 510ma would push an XRE ok and I could use a copper cap for slightly increased heat sinking. All I really need to buy is a better aluminum reflector and a lense to make this a pretty cool little light that will run on a AAA battery. Right? I have an XRE 16mm star already. I really do thank you guys for your time and knowledge on this light.
Rick

yes, I think I stuck w/ stock driver

you’ll want that spacer/insulator, too

http://www.kaidomain.com/Search/SearchResult.isolator

you’re welcome, i’m glad someone else like that light.

would be great if someone would make a quality one - AA head on minimum size AAA body…

Hey Manxbuggy,

just in case you don't know - if your driver draws 510 mA from the battery, then it can't push the same current to the led.

The driver boosts up the battery voltage to 3.4V (or whatever the led needs) and therefore delivers less current to the led.

BTW, mine draws only 340 mA.