These are close to what you would see in reality. Maybe just a tiny bit overexposed. The distance is 30 yards.
Bruce
EA4 Cool White
G5 Maelstrom
What’s the camera settings on those beamshots if I can ask?
These are the settings Brad.
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!
Hey thanks.
No problem. Are those settings in the ballpark ?
Is that manual or auto exposure? It doesn’t say.
I had the camera set on manual.
Here’s a link to a review on the camera. Olympus E-PL1 Review: Digital Photography Review
I contacted Craig from Illumination Supply. He's sending me a replacement EA4! He's going to make sure the bezel is square to the body, and hopefully no rattle.
Dunno mate. I think they all have protruding vessels as the one I sold was the same. Rattle varies, i know that much. let us know if you get one with a flush bezel please!
Glenn,
Did you ever try removing the bezel and see if it was cross threaded? Just curious….
Borrowed from CPF:
In a German flashlightforum they discuss the following feature of the EA4: go in SOS mode, finish it by a half click, wait 3 minutes during which the blue LED is lighting continuously and be surprised that the EA4 goes on by itself in high-mode after 3 minutes.
arn357- I tried it and it works, don’t know the purpose of it though.
Wait, so you set it and then it is off and will turn on after 3 minutes?
What would be the reason for that? To scare the crap out of people when they come over… 
Yup! The blue remains on constant and the light comes on high right after 3 mins. have elasped. Detonator function.
The gap between the head and the bezel is not the problem. It's the fact it's not even. One side has almost no gap, the other has a fairly large gap. Either the bezel was cross threaded, or the head was cut or threaded off square. Either way, I'm not a happy camper.
Rick, I tried to remove the bezel with the palm of my hand but I wasn't able to. I wasn't going to risk scratching my new light with a tool.
I agree I wouldn’t take a chance scratching it up. Just sucks you have to go through this.
The threads weren’t cut concentric to the aluminum head. In other words the aluminum head has to be put in a professional grade cutting/boring machince and on what we used to call a fixture to lay the part on. The part or in this case piece of aluminum is then clamped down to hold it to where it can’t move. The threads are then cut by probably a carbide insert and have to be cut in parallel to the piece of aluminum. That is what concentricity is. That wasn’t done here apparently on a lot of these EA4’s.
I use to work at Dana Corp and machined and assembled differential cases. When we machined the case for the sidegear dimensions, and the machine was set up correctly it would cut top and bottom sidegear concentricity dimensions to under .0005 total runout for each sidegear throat. That’s almost as accurate as drilling a hole for true roundness with a very expensive professional drill bit.