HELP WANTED - Need good (and cheap) headlamp for running

Sorry for the slow replies, still trying to sort out the med situation w/my mom - today was the first day since 12/25 that we were able to persuade her to take the meds ...

My preference in batteries is either 18650s or 28650s. I have to admit that I am pleasantly surprised by my generic "1600 Lumen" (HAH!!!) headlamp. I guess it is difficult to screw up the XML LED. However, as you all anticipated, the Ultrafires that it came with are looking pretty shady ...

I ordered 2 pairs of Panasonic NCR18650Bs off of FastTech and a Nitecore I4 charger. I am debating the purchase of a SkyRC B6 ultimate to do controlled discharges and logging (its the research engineer in me).

I hadn't considered that (The zebra HL). The shape looked like it would be pretty bad for retention on a headband. However, your post got me researching and I found something called the Nite Ize Headband that seems to be pretty universally used for running w/the Zebra HL. That will be going on my short list.

Glad to hear that it is bright! Truthfully that charger is overkill for flashlight batteries. From what I can tell the Accucel 6 can do everything that one can do, except the accucel 6 can be had for under 40 dollars shipped from the US.

Check out SPARK headlamps. On par with the quality of zebralight. Check out the ST6

I'll find out about the weight tomorrow morning. It seems a bit marginal at 263 grams. The majority of the weight is the battery compartment/circuitry which weighs about 150 grams. This has me thinking about making a dedicated battery pouch to carry on my waist ...

I'll be running on snow covered paved walking paths. Unfortunately, the Detroit Metro area has seen hard times and doesn't really maintain the quality of the pavement. There are numerous areas where tree roots have raised 2-3 inch high barriers.

I think I mentioned this in another post, but the amount of light is actually decent. It needs to be a bit more floody, but all things considered, not as bad as I feared. After looking at some of the magicshine lights, I think you have it identified correctly (as a clone).

If you want it a bit more floody you can put scotch tape over the lense.

I got the SkyRC B6 Ultimate for $68 shipped - hopefully the data logging is worth it . Even if I had seen the Accucel before, I probably would have gone for the data logging. I'm sure someone at BLF has used one of these. I should have asked how good it is for that purpose ...

I'm planning to power it w/an ATX power supply.

AHAH!!!

Great idea. I assume you mean the frosty type of scotch tape?

Interesting!

I like the ST6 and I am wondering about the SD6. It looks like it may be a bit too floody ...

Funny enough, that looks *exactly* like what I got!

Yep, I've actually done it before and it works fairly well. There also is diffuser film, but I don't see the need for it. (If I had any left I'd send some to you)

For all the good it will do, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098IJC7C/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00 . It appears that this HL doesn't have ANY distinguishing brand marks on it.

Yes. I have a basic multimeter. I also have access to some pretty high end stuff at work - all the way up to multi GS/S network scopes. Ironically enough, considering the next question I am going to ask you, I have been responsible for swapping out a small battery pack on a hybrid SUV and installing a large battery pack that allowed us to convert it to a plug in hybrid configuration.

No. What would be your recommendation for how to measure the current draw? The battery pack is a dual 18650 setup in a parallel configuration. The cord that goes between the battery pack and the light appears to be sealed, so I cannot easily get a current probe around one of the wires. Should I get a couple of 18650 trays (I need them for my B6 charger) and temporarily patch them into the unit? Any easier ways? What do I do with the current numbers once I have them?

Since you’re talking about doing a remote battery pack, now is probably the right time to order extension cables. There’s a lot of possibilities, but a couple of sku 32751 at dx.com would work well. They’re waterproof and click together firmly. They’ll take a while to arrive, but I don’t know a vendor stateside.

First of all, your cells should be great for that light. I doubt that its pulling more than 2A.

But on how to measure current (provided you know how to measure current):

You need some magnets and good testing leads (thick wires with alligator clips). Then hook it all up with just one cell, fire the light up and read the amps.

Magnets/leads inbound. I can do either a direct measurement with my multi-meter, a current probe, or use a shunt inline. I'll probably do all three just to see how it differs.

Inbound - Thanks!! I ended up getting one of their battery packs as well. I am expecting to replace the batteries in the pack, but the waterproofed case should be helpful until I can fashion one for myself.

One more idea for making the unit less spot-y…

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wide-Angle-Lens-4-MagicShine-Gemini-Lupine-Bike-Light-/280752532003

or just google “wide angle lens for magicshine”

I wonder if there is any other source beside the one ruffles posted?
Ie, Chinese seller selling these in larger quantities and for cheaper :D!

I put some different diffusion films on the lens and finally settled on DC Fix Sand on both sides of the lens. I may try the wide angle lens w/diffusion film on one side.

Thanks for the warning about DX shipping. They are horrible! They are still "working on putting the order together".

Seriously???

I nixed the battery pack because it was OOS and they couldn't give me an ETA for when it would be in stock.

My first run w/the system was on Sunday night. The first 6.3 miles was run w/o the light. The last 12.3 miles was w/the light. The performance was a bit marginal because I ran the system on the low setting. I was not sure of the XXXfire battery capacity, current drain of either setting, or the effect of cold weather. Once I have the Panasonic batteries and finish building my laboratory power supply, I plan to characterize the entire system.

Wow…. really? that sounds like a lot to me…. When i ran even lighter lights were a PITA for me. Few headlights are well designed for running, light, well balanced and powerful enough. I used to do trail running , occasionally some skyrunning, and found out that sometimes it was better to use low outputs, because too high ones just killed the contrast and rocks and other obstacles turned flat. I’d say my headlights are around half weight without being ultralight. I should check it though…