Yeah, hopefully
Only thing is the heat sinking. The 3 leds are bonded on a single aluminium star that is glued into the head of the light, so the only area of contact with the head is around the edge of the star.
+1 - they are all in parallel so doesn't matter where. That's why you can even remove some, or double stack (3 high) them. But, oh boy, pushing a single 26650 over 5 amps? Not sure what the limit is on high qual batteries... I know there's been things published here on BLF about that. 6 amps would be nice, 2 amps per LED, but 6 amps on 1 battery? - only the best batteries, maybe...
Not sure, but 9-10A even on an IMR may be unrealistic -- should check this.
At a guess, there is about 25mm between the star and driver, but a lot of it is taken up by the glue. I suppose it will be thermal glue of some sort though.
WOW! This is great news! I guess both flashlight has the same driver! Talk about making it easy :bigsmile: This means my JM26 has room for 4 extra 37135 and NOT 3! There’s enough room under the driver so stacking is not a problem. Looks like I’m gonna buy the SL3 and mod it. Tell me how it goes, MattSPL! I might do the same. I’m gonna mail Hank at Intl-outdoor to see if he has any extension tube for sale together with the SL3!
The driver stops where the grooves end, so there’s enough room underneath:
Interesting, but $70-$77 for the Shadow... I just may look at buying a TMART TangsFire HD 2010 3 LED for $42, upgrade the XML's to XML2 U2's, and add a KD V2 driver decked out to 7.5A (triple stacking some), and maybe have something better. Don't know, trade-off's there... The host of the Shadow SL3 sure looks nice!
Yes, but I'm getting good with copper, thanks to Old-Lumens... Was hoping it's similar to the std HD 2010 - that one I modded with adding 5 copper discs.
I just ordered some 7135 chips They might take 2-4 weeks to get here though.
I’ve never soldered anything this small before, so hopefully my hand is steady enough
ohh, ok, ouch! I did a mod to a FTT, Poppas S7 from Manafont, that had the "hollow pill" (nothing behind the LED PCB), and back-filled it with a brass pill grinded down, then press fit in just right... - pain of a job but got it worked out pretty well. Chicago-X has the super lathe so he can do pretty much anything, wonder if he worked something out for that light.