At a guess, there is about 25mm between the star and driver, but a lot of it is taken up by the glue. I suppose it will be thermal glue of some sort though.
That big aluminum board stays on another piece of aluminum which is basically machined from one piece with the head.
Ok, that sounds good 
I have some king Kong inr’s already………must……not……pull…….trigger………yet. J) 0:)
WOW! This is great news! I guess both flashlight has the same driver! Talk about making it easy :bigsmile: This means my JM26 has room for 4 extra 37135 and NOT 3! There’s enough room under the driver so stacking is not a problem. Looks like I’m gonna buy the SL3 and mod it. Tell me how it goes, MattSPL! I might do the same. I’m gonna mail Hank at Intl-outdoor to see if he has any extension tube for sale together with the SL3!
The driver stops where the grooves end, so there’s enough room underneath:
I’m really happy right now :bigsmile:
thanks for the link to those cells matt, I think that’s the highest rating I’ve seen.
The other IMRs I checked when we were last talking 9A sl3 were 18A
I was asking about the space because I’m wondering if it’d be possible to add a custom machined copper heatsink
might not be warranted if the path from star to body is good enough…tests will tell 
You can't use an extension tube with the SL3, the max voltage of the 7135 chips is 6 volts and 2 li-ions would be 8.4 volts.
Interesting, but $70-$77 for the Shadow... I just may look at buying a TMART TangsFire HD 2010 3 LED for $42, upgrade the XML's to XML2 U2's, and add a KD V2 driver decked out to 7.5A (triple stacking some), and maybe have something better. Don't know, trade-off's there... The host of the Shadow SL3 sure looks nice!
The bt-950 3 x xm-l is supposed to have poor heat sinking, I was put off ordering one when I asked.
Yes, but I'm getting good with copper, thanks to Old-Lumens... 
Was hoping it's similar to the std HD 2010 - that one I modded with adding 5 copper discs.
I think its more a floating design, but I may be wrong on this, I think chi-x knows a bit about them.
Yeah, it's a floating pill.
I just ordered some 7135 chips They might take 2-4 weeks to get here though.
I’ve never soldered anything this small before, so hopefully my hand is steady enough 
ohh, ok, ouch! I did a mod to a FTT, Poppas S7 from Manafont, that had the "hollow pill" (nothing behind the LED PCB), and back-filled it with a brass pill grinded down, then press fit in just right... - pain of a job but got it worked out pretty well. Chicago-X has the super lathe so he can do pretty much anything, wonder if he worked something out for that light.
I stacked my first last week, its not so bad. I did get a heat shunt from maplin, I dont know if its necessary, but their two quid, and helpful for holding the chips at least. You don’t have to solder the centre pin, its common to the heat tag at the top of the chip, I tinned the pins first too and used a 40w iron. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the tip.
I saw those heat shunts on ebay while looking at tweezers, but wondered what they were for.
I hold the new chip in place and bend the legs down until they almost touch the existing chip. With a tiny bit of flux the solder bridges that little gap. Seems easy to me (with a properly size soldering iron tip) and I’m not great w/ soldering…at all.
Will this stuff work, or is normal solder a better idea? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150960948127?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&\_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
it might. but a proper iron is more important, and solder core flux, or the tiniest amount of flux that you can put right on the leg is sufficient, imho
oh, and a magnifying glass can help.
I also find it helpful to have it set up so that my hand has something steady to rest on or push against - ie no shaking…
It should do, I just use normal rosin? Solder from maplin, I just realised your in Ireland, do you have one near by? Failing that, any electrical suppliers will carry the bits you need. For stuff like this, I prefer to go local tbh, just so I can have a butcher’s at what I’m getting.