I agree, but for $65 in Lowe’s and Home Depot, I will pass. I would pass even for $10. I’m a cheapskate, LOL.
Muwhahaha
Looking good.
Ok, gotcha! This IS your build… but I was expecting the curtains would match the drapes so to speak
-Drew
The gears in his head - they aint rustin'
With his hand tools his knuckles he's bustin'
While the cold wind outside is a gustin'
He's a real workshop wizard , our Justin ....
It’s only because I bought T6 3C from China. All I could find at the price I was willing to pay, so that’s what I will put in.
I would put in a Nichia, but the new batches of the 219 that I have gotten from IS are Not warm White and I suspect, not high CIR either. They are borderline neutral to cool white and don't look like high CRI from what I can tell with my eyes.
Jack
You've got the knack.
but you are amazing Old-Lumens.
Thats some fine “Eyeball” Drilling!!! Nice project Justin…. THANKS for sharing!!!
Dan.
Are the new 219’s the ones available since Craig restocked?
Nichia NVSL219AT-H1 4500K, 92 CRI , B10 Bin
Yes, I just got some last week. They are nothing like the original batch. I would rate them at 5700K and 85 CRI or so. Just by eye, so you know how much that is worth, but for sure, much whiter than the first batch. The last two batches have been consistently whiter, but maybe that first batch was a different bin.
The Angel Eye ring lives!
Photos in the OP
Sweet! Great work!
Nice!
I was going to power the Angel Eyes ring with one 7135 chip, but after testing it out this morning, I'm more likely to just do it direct. If I use a 7135 chip, then I am forcing amperage to the LEDs, instead of them pulling what they want. If one were to go thermal and die, then all the others would automatically see more current, but without a chip, if one goes thermal and dies, the rest would not change. They would still be requesting what they were before one died. I think, in the long run, that's the way I will go. Use a driver for the XM-L and leave the 3mm LEDs DD.
What is the current draw of all of the LED's on DD? The 7135 doesn't force current at the LED's, it's just limiting it. The only reason to use the 7135 is to set a specific amperage. If the LED's handle DD fine and pull below what the 7135 can provide, then I wouldn't bother.
I don’t know the current draw. I just tested with 3 AAA Alkalines, for about 5 minutes, to see how they would do. I will be using NiMHs.
But I don't get what you are saying about the 3mm LEDs. I am sure that all of them probably pull just a little different mA and probably they all have just a little different Vf. If the 7135 chip puts out 380mA, then with 20 LEDs, they all get about 19mA, but if a couple went bad, then the rest would see a higher mA, correct? I mean, the chip is forcing 380mA out of it, where a battery forces nothing. A battery only gives what is requested of it, from the device that is using it. A 7135 chip is regulated power that outputs to a device, so it's not what I would call passive, like a battery. It will output 380mA regulated, so if there were only 15 LEDs, they would see a higher output to each one, than 20 LEDs. I shake my head and cry tears every time I think about electronics.
Of course I guess I could look at it this way. If the battery pack were to be fully charged and started out at 4 volts, then the LEDs might pull too high an amp draw, due to the higher voltage, especially if some of them have a lower Vf, so then a 7135 chip would be better, since it will limit the current to no more than 380mA. In that respect, I can see the need for regulation.
LOL, it would be so much simpler if I were smarter...
You and me both! I'm reading through "Electronics for Dummies" now, but I wish there was another level below "Dummies" ;)
The 7135 "bucks" voltage, it doesn't increase it. If the LED can handle being driven directly by the battery, adding a 7135 in between the battery and LED would never cause more current to be sent to the LED, only less.
Like you said, you only want to think about using a 7135 in the case where freshly charged batteries would be too much for DD. But you're right in the situation where say a few LED's die, that 350ma would be spread out among the remaining LED's assuming the source voltage is a certain amount higher than the forward voltage of the LED.
In the case where the LED's can handle the full voltage of the battery, but you have a 7135 in between anyways, having a few LED's die would do nothing to the other LED's (the 7135 would not force the other current into the LED's, as the only way to do that is add more voltage, which 7135's do not do).
Hopefully this helps? And hopefully I'm getting this stuff right? Haha.
You should put the chip in. You can lose a few LEDs and still have the rest driven at a safe level. Going direct drive, you never know how much current they will take.
A 7135 would be beneficial if initial battery voltage is too high for safe DD. However Justin is right that in the event that one LED happens to go bad, the 350mA provided by the 7135 is distributed to fewer LEDs, so the remaining 19 LEDs see a slightly higher current. But since the 7135 limits current, it reduces the likelihood of emitters seeing too much current in the first place compared to direct drive.