Pulsar,consider the fact that you want to run it on 1 cell and it may not work right.I know for sure if you decide an emitter swap,you won't be able to use xre,xpg or xpc due to the stock amps being too much for those emitters not bonded to copper.Just some stuff to think about and I have tried to make mine a shorty host with no luck.The closest solution I had was to get a shadow TC-500 1x18650 tube,but I can't verify if threads will work.Just my opinion,get an XML2 in there with a resistor mod and aspheric which will get you a nice fat throw beam.I modded mine to MTG2 and it's a flood monster,so I plan to get another for aspheric mod.
On a single cell, the tail current is 1.89a, on two cells its at .88a. I’ve played with it a bit with my 7g2cs tube on it, but I don’t want to keep swapping them.
Edit: looks like a monster just as a shorty, can’t imagine how bad she will look with the collimator head on
Seems a bit low with 2 cell,I can’t remember my stock output but single cell amps would work fine with xre or xrc.Either of those emitters will give you a nice laser like beam.TBH the .88 amps will be a little underdriven if you want a decent preformer.The other issue you have to tackle is the focal length of the aspheric head of the crelant,even though it fits you might have to mess with the distance from emitter to lens.
Yeah, I got a few pots and a bunch of resistors to take care of the driver. And I’m hoping the focal length is close enough that the adjustments on the head will handle it.
Now testing amps at the emitter, can I just check it with my meter, or should I remove the emitter before testing? Don’t want to prematurely kill anything
I'll watch this thread to see how you do because I'm curious about the focal length of the crelant head.GL edit:incorrect advice removed.
Thanks, I’ll make sure I update on all I do to it. From the looks I will end up with the crelant battery tube and switch for $29, but I’m going to get the head first. Just waiting on eBay to release my funds.
Put the ea4 on hold for a while since I think later batches will fix the small issues with it.
Now looking at it, I’ll have about $100 in to this, $70 not counting the battery tube… So I hope I get some good numbers in the end.
I could have just saved up and got something pre built for $100, but I tend to be bad at saving up. And its fun building and having something one of a kind
I wish you great luck with this, Pulsar. I've always wanted to make a T13 into a single cell shorty. Would make for one super sexy light IMO. ;)
I’ll get a pic up later. It is
Then do an Old-Lumen jobbie at the splice? Any decent lathe guy can open up the inside main half while turning down the tail cap end on the outside.
Done me thinks.
I already know I can get it done, but the threads that attach to the head are crap and that part is a hexagon shape. That and between shipping and the lathe work and Crap threads, I’m almost better off getting the crelant tube
Ok. Can they be re-chased to get them back to good?
I don’t think so, it would just make them looser and be more likely to strip out
well fell asleep earlier than usual last night… but heres some pics
this is the zy-t13 and 7g2cs side by side
and here is the shorty zy-t13
i think shes damn good looking myself
Yes! That’s a handsome little guy!
Running 2 x RCR123s, you may notice sagging with a lot of use. I don’t think it’d be that bad though.
I’m planning on running just 1 18650, but I’ll have to wait and see until I do some more testing with it. Seems to work atleast as good as two, but I may be wrong. Want to check amps at the emitter too.
I think it’s a pretty Damn good looking light as a shorty too. But everything but the part that holds the pill, driver and side switch will be crelant parts… So maybe I should have just bought a 7g5cs? Lol. Working on a deal for a collimator head, tailcap and battery tube right now. Hope to work something out
blind now… but amps at the emitter read something like 5.6a with two cells. that dont seem right??
On mine I measured 3.1 amps at the emitter. How are you measuring it? I'm going to guess you are just shorting it and you didn't desolder the LED wires?
yup, that would be the way… once i made contact the leds output dropped to barely nothing
Pulsar, you are just shorting it. You need to desolder one of the wires to the LED and then wire the DMM in series with the LED.
so just to make sure i got this… id want to desolder the negative from the star and take my readings from the neg pad to the neg return wire?