Yeah, I got a few pots and a bunch of resistors to take care of the driver. And I’m hoping the focal length is close enough that the adjustments on the head will handle it.
Now testing amps at the emitter, can I just check it with my meter, or should I remove the emitter before testing? Don’t want to prematurely kill anything
Thanks, I’ll make sure I update on all I do to it. From the looks I will end up with the crelant battery tube and switch for $29, but I’m going to get the head first. Just waiting on eBay to release my funds.
Put the ea4 on hold for a while since I think later batches will fix the small issues with it.
Now looking at it, I’ll have about $100 in to this, $70 not counting the battery tube… So I hope I get some good numbers in the end.
I could have just saved up and got something pre built for $100, but I tend to be bad at saving up. And its fun building and having something one of a kind
I already know I can get it done, but the threads that attach to the head are crap and that part is a hexagon shape. That and between shipping and the lathe work and Crap threads, I’m almost better off getting the crelant tube
I’m planning on running just 1 18650, but I’ll have to wait and see until I do some more testing with it. Seems to work atleast as good as two, but I may be wrong. Want to check amps at the emitter too.
I think it’s a pretty Damn good looking light as a shorty too. But everything but the part that holds the pill, driver and side switch will be crelant parts… So maybe I should have just bought a 7g5cs? Lol. Working on a deal for a collimator head, tailcap and battery tube right now. Hope to work something out
On mine I measured 3.1 amps at the emitter. How are you measuring it? I'm going to guess you are just shorting it and you didn't desolder the LED wires?
any thing else to say to the questions in the first two posts? pretty sure im just going to go with the crelant battery tube unless i can find a cheap host with good threads… but im not sure about the best emitter with the optics ill be using, or dedoming with aspherics…
The XR-E is still the best for aspherics, not the quite the highest surface brightness but it does have a narrower emittance angle. The focal point will not change depending on LED (i don't think so) and de-doming will increase throw.