small sun zy-t13: aspheric xre (200k+ lux!!!) back from the dead!

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
8

Thanks, I’ll make sure I update on all I do to it. From the looks I will end up with the crelant battery tube and switch for $29, but I’m going to get the head first. Just waiting on eBay to release my funds.
Put the ea4 on hold for a while since I think later batches will fix the small issues with it.

Now looking at it, I’ll have about $100 in to this, $70 not counting the battery tube… So I hope I get some good numbers in the end.
I could have just saved up and got something pre built for $100, but I tend to be bad at saving up. And its fun building and having something one of a kind

9

I wish you great luck with this, Pulsar. I've always wanted to make a T13 into a single cell shorty. Would make for one super sexy light IMO. ;)

10

I’ll get a pic up later. It is

11

Then do an Old-Lumen jobbie at the splice? Any decent lathe guy can open up the inside main half while turning down the tail cap end on the outside.

Done me thinks.

12

I already know I can get it done, but the threads that attach to the head are crap and that part is a hexagon shape. That and between shipping and the lathe work and Crap threads, I’m almost better off getting the crelant tube

13

Ok. Can they be re-chased to get them back to good?

14

I don’t think so, it would just make them looser and be more likely to strip out

15

well fell asleep earlier than usual last night… but heres some pics

this is the zy-t13 and 7g2cs side by side

and here is the shorty zy-t13

i think shes damn good looking myself

16

Yes! That’s a handsome little guy!

Running 2 x RCR123s, you may notice sagging with a lot of use. I don’t think it’d be that bad though.

17

I’m planning on running just 1 18650, but I’ll have to wait and see until I do some more testing with it. Seems to work atleast as good as two, but I may be wrong. Want to check amps at the emitter too.

I think it’s a pretty Damn good looking light as a shorty too. But everything but the part that holds the pill, driver and side switch will be crelant parts… So maybe I should have just bought a 7g5cs? Lol. Working on a deal for a collimator head, tailcap and battery tube right now. Hope to work something out

18

blind now… but amps at the emitter read something like 5.6a with two cells. that dont seem right??

19

On mine I measured 3.1 amps at the emitter. How are you measuring it? I'm going to guess you are just shorting it and you didn't desolder the LED wires?

20

yup, that would be the way… once i made contact the leds output dropped to barely nothing

21

Pulsar, you are just shorting it. You need to desolder one of the wires to the LED and then wire the DMM in series with the LED.

22

so just to make sure i got this… id want to desolder the negative from the star and take my readings from the neg pad to the neg return wire?

23

Yep.

24

any thing else to say to the questions in the first two posts? :stuck_out_tongue: pretty sure im just going to go with the crelant battery tube unless i can find a cheap host with good threads… but im not sure about the best emitter with the optics ill be using, or dedoming with aspherics…

25

The XR-E is still the best for aspherics, not the quite the highest surface brightness but it does have a narrower emittance angle. The focal point will not change depending on LED (i don't think so) and de-doming will increase throw.

26

nice. actually have an xre on a star thats not in anything right now. im not worried about max lumens with this, im looking for max throw. and i wasnt sure if any of the newer emitters knocked the xre out yet.

27

How do you know, that the crelant collimator will fit to this light, and the focal point will be good? That's a lottery.

I'm just set the driver current to 1.4-1.5A and put a dedomed emitter in the light, and I'm happy with the 88kcd now. Eventually a same size asperical throws better than a reflector, but you loose a lot of flood lights. And it requires much more work and time ...

here are some spot beamshots I hope you can choose, which is the best for you:

1/1600, iso100, f2.8

t13 with modded driver 1.4A tailcap current , with a dedomed T6 xm-l, 88kcd

it is not so greenish in reality, the wallpaper is green, and the camera white balance is crap

t13 with orig driver 1ampere tc current, 36Kcd

t13 with modded driver 1.4A tc current, 44kcd

xr-e R2 at 1.2A + 66mm aspherical, 120kcd

xm-l T6 at 3A+ 66mm aspherical, 70-80kcd

dedomed xm-l T6 at 3A+ 66mm aspherical, 130-140kcd