I know that this torch is not sold by DX alone, but they are one of the big resellers, and they are official members of this forum.
What is their explanation of this Trustfire TR DF003 having those big issues? Maybe they should ask the company Trustfire or whoever is behind the design of it.
All we see is an ‘ooops we just correct the lumen output in the spec’s’, nothing else. Maybe I just haven’t read the official statement, but there should in my mind be some kind of statement from the supplier / producer after this kind of blunder.
Are you all satisfied with your money back, and that’s it? Wouldn’t it be fair to ask for an explanation? Wouldn’t it be nice to hear, what they are going to do in the future? Are there going to be an updated version with all problems solved?
Just got this light and took it to a dive in dark water. The beam seems to be too scattered for these murky waters but I’m still going to try modding it. Ordered a new driver for it that should give 3 A of current and also a switch and a rubber boot for it. I’m going to install the switch to the tailcap and it will still use the body of the light for connection but the switch will cut the minus from it when turned off. So electrolysis and switching modes should not be a problem
We’ll see if I can make it waterproof and boosted up…
Ok, I just ordered one of these torches online and I am now reading all of this bad news about them. (FML)
I guess that is why the trustfire website doesn’t even have them on their website and removed them from Amazon.
Anyway, I have no choice but to try to modify it and give it a go. First on the list are new O-rings. I will probably just buy viton o-rings. Can someone please tell me the two different sizes?
O-ring lubricant, I will opt for aqualube or molykote-111.
I agree. They might as well slap some black paint on the front of the lens while they are at it. Proof that the people in the design dept work on a different planet than the ones that do the actual testing.
I just took off the reflectors off mine. Even though the LED’s are 2 inches in past the bezel it still gives a nice wide beam… Not very bright at all but 2 are good enough for my GoPro set up which is why I need to find a way to fix the corrosion issue.
All these diving lights are moderately driven so they run longer on a dive. With the Trustfire cells provided in the kit, I get exactly 2a at the tailcap. And yes, it does give a nice beam even though the reflector is set back very far.
Have you thought about galvanizing and sealing your torch?
Alternatively, take it to your nearest anodizer and get them to anodize it.
I am still waiting for my torch to arrive so I can examine it. Pretty much, you have to turn it on before you dive? Otherwise the water passes the seals and it short circuits. What a flawed design.
I also disassembled my torch and figured out that the leds are connected in parallel. So as the tailcap amps are a bit over 2 A, isn’t the A per led something like 0.77?
I allready connected them in series and switched the driver for it and it seems a lot brighter. I also fixed the switch problem adding a push button switch to the tailcap that isolates the minus potential from the body when not turned on. Should fix the corroding problem. Still have to figure out, how to make it 100 % waterproof.
Altough I have some bigger plans for this lamp since it’s inner design seems to be a LOT better than the overall with this tailcap and using only two cells…
Here’s some pictures of the disassembled lamp: dropbox gallery
I’m planning to use only the lighthead of the lamp with a canister. Also most propably replacing the XML’s with sst-90’s. ATM trying to find out if you can make the bigger led’s fit with the reflector and heatsink. Propably going to use this driver with that triple sst-90
No idea, I don’t have the torch yet to conduct tests. It’s already anodized so maybe they can put a thicker/harder layer on. I’ll be trying out Pokasha’s trick first by replacing the LED driver and soldering them in series. Definitely changing the o-rings and applying aqua shield. I won’t be functioning the torch underwater. Turning it ON before entering and leaving it ON.
Won’t delve into adding a push button/switch. I fear the torch would lose it’s water depth rating and render itself useless. I also don’t see any point in engineering a new longer tail cap with a longer seal face. I would much rather spend the extra money and buy a XTAR D35 or similar as a backup.
Here you go Fits when you take the placing ring from the original driver and install the new with it.
Not 100 % sure that’s a good choice since it seems to create pretty much heat (without potting to heatsink it’s a matter of seconds when the driver is too hot to touch) and therefore starts to cut down the current. (a way that’s really good thing as it shows that the thermostat works)
I have no experience of the amount of heat that is still ok to be produced by the driver. Any opinions based on experience or knowledge?
No, that was just a test for the current drain and voltage and the driver was lying free on carpet. Pic I was just wondering is it normal that the driver heats up so quick since some driver producers promise something like 98 % efficiency…
I tested the heating when I got this lamp (with the leds still in parallel) and it was very moderate. I could keep the lamp on the whole battery cycle wich was almost an hour. The temp was highest in the “heatsink part” of the body and it was about 45 degrees celsius. Obviously in the water there is no problem especially here in Finland.
The case with triple sst-90 it could be another story :bigsmile:
I just dropped the LED module into my mag head… Not a bad fit!!
If I got a couple 2C mags I wonder if I could make it work. Does anybody make a rubber boot that would make the switch water proof?
