You won't poof it, there's no positive lead there. You'll either get a good reading or nothing at all (and the light won't light up). You removed the switch cover, right? Put one lead in the screw hole from the removed cover and touch the other lead to one side of the switch (switch contact point). If correct the light will turn on and you'll get a reading. If nothing, try the lead on the other switch contact point. Be sure to report back with current on high, battery voltage, and battery brand and model (mAh).
Now of course my next question is will the resistor mod bring it up to 3amp draw?
If so, where to acquire such resistor and what wattage as there seems to be many around at .22 ohm and various wattages?
I ordered the pots viffer linked earlier in the thread, then gain an asditant to hold leads/cells and dial in your current. I’ve not got back to replace the pot I fitted, but this is how I did this previously, just need to fit the new pot and switch, tune it up and I’m away, although the thought has occurred to fit one of the nw xm-l2’s that are inbound…
They are not SMD components (I don’t have a clue, where to get SMD 0.22Ohm resistors…).
Because of their size, you will have to bend legs a bit to get a good fit.
PM your address, if you need one and I will send it. Got plenty of them left…
Nope. Had a pair of same batteries topped off at 4.21V…no change
HOWEVER….there seems to be a “hidden turbo” like you referred to as I hit 2.96amp on several occasions fiddlin around here while jumping modes. Hmmmm….
IMO it is safer, I´m not 100% if parallel configuration rules out the reverse charging totally but it is safer.
What I mean, is that I don´t know Exactly how batteries react if 2 pieces of totally different voltage are inserted when using parallel.
I know that in serial configuration this can be dangerous.
Runtime on High depends on what batteries you are considering to use.
I keep digging on the but seems can’t find a certain answer from the expert or people who really know what they are doing. the most common explanation is the weaker cell will absorb the power from the better cell to maintain voltage level. dunno if that process is a safe case with lithium.
maybe runtime on panasonic 3100 mAh?
Anyone try a U3 or XM-l2 in this? I have some of both on the way and am thinking of trying one or the other.
I know it has a giganto star, but if I center it right with a little Fujik, I’m thinking a 21 would work fine with that big plastic white retainer to center it and cover up hot wires.