Richie,
You sure ground off a lot of anodizing. I see you even ground out the o-ring channels on the handle. Also I can’t see the contact ring on the head very well, and I hate to say this after all the anodizing you’ve removed, but it looks like you may want to be sure you’ve got a good bare metal surface for the ring at the base of the head.
Sure enough, from what I’m seeing, I would be concerned about your o-ring surfaces giving out now at depth pressures.
Not to worry, just don’t dive it as is. If you can, try to bring those o-ring surfaces back to as smooth a surface as you possibly can. It looks like it might be tough access in the o-ring channels on the handle but just get everything as smooth as you can.
The next problem might be having to re-size the o-rings for the amount of material removed but as I said in another reply, the stock o-rings are so big that you may be able to use them but you still need to have a smooth surface or they won’t seal. You will know if you need o-rings with bigger cross section by how hard it is to screw the handle back onto the head.
But if your surfaces aren’t smooth, not only will it leak at depth, but you’ll damage the o-rings every time you unscrew the handle from the head.
When you think you have everything done right, first test dive it without batteries and with silica gel packs to run defense for your electronics in case some salt water gets into the housing. I would say four atmospheres should do (about a 100FSW). But you REALLY don’t want to have salt water hitting 26650’s with a fresh charge inside a cast metal dive light. I would consider that a safety breach.
A bit off topic:
I see in the background that you also have another CREE dive light I have. I think they first hit the market as the MAGICSHINE MJ-810E.
It’s been cloned to death and I had read many complaints that the magnetic bezel wasn’t indexed so it would slide around changing modes all the time. I bought a great look-alike new for $25 on Fleabay. Unbelievably bright for the money. The switch on the one I got is well indexed and holds its mode positions just fine. I just don’t care for the lens seal design so I couldn’t give it the same depth blessing as our TR-DF003 or my KEYGOS S3 with the o-ring mods I’ve done to it but again $25, really??!!