Modding the Defiant Super Thrower - Mod is done. Not worth the effort? Edit: I don't know

From the inside the pill’s face looks a lot thinner than it does from the side. How thick is the material where the holes are drilled through?

How will you be bonding the copper cap to the underside of the face?

The thickness is "about" 1/8" or thicker, under the star, where the holes are. Thicker than most I have seen, if that helps.

I will make a solid copper pill inside there. I will use a thin layer of AA in between, for a contact between the two. I may take one of my end mill bits and dress the inside, to get it smoother.

@ dchomak

Thanks for the video. I could not decide on one and that one works!

Mod is done.

I dunno, it looks pretty decent to me. Did you fire it up stock for comparison? The nimhs won’t be any brighter but will offer recharge ability and c cell nimhs are available too. In any case, where you lead others will follow. Thanks for showing the build.

Running an XM-L at 4.2 amps… I don’t understand, why is it not worth the upgrade over stock ? was it the poor reflector ? poor quality glass ? or too much heat causing loss of output ?

Well, I just went outside and used the light on the locations I did last night, using the Alkalines. I have to say it is brighter. Let's put it this way, it illuminates the same objects better than it did before. I see more detail in the objects, so I would say it did make a difference in the light.

What does that mean? Hell I don't know. Would it throw farther? Or does it just shift the tint a bit and seem brighter? I wouldn't know, but there is a difference visually from last night.

Just out of curiosity, are you using the same battery config as before ? Due to it already being direct drive as standard, if you’re using the same config then it makes sense it wouldn’t be much different.

You’ll only notice a change if you up the voltage so the LED can utilise a higher vf to jack up the amps.

Did you do before and after tailcap measurements ?

Sorry for all the questions O-L :8

My guess is the switch mod improved the current flow and stock switch was acting as a limiter below 12 chip output.

If four sub-C’s would fit, then a regulated buck driver should work great. You would have enough voltage head room to allow the regulator to regulate.

I tried three Sub-C, there is not room for four of them. I now have the original 3 Alkalines in it. I don't intend to do anything else with it except sell it. I thought I would see if any international member wanted it for more modding. Probably not because of the shipping, but you never know and since it's a US only light right now, someone might want it. As far as upping the voltage, it would take a different driver. 4.5v is the max for 7135 drivers without lots of excess heat, (I'm told).

I can't check amp draw. I don't have a meter for that and if I did, I would screw it up. Seriously, I have been there and done that and sold the last meter.

Mine draws 2.5 amps with included Alkalines. If I use 1 18650 that pushes 4A through another light I have in DD, in this Defiant, I only get 2A. I will convert to DD and see what happens.

mod is worth
better driver so maximum brightness during useful life of battery (stock wont regulate correctly. and it reduce drive current in big amount when battery voltage drops.)
New switch also better. stock switch has poor contacts (I experienced it)

Does this mean running 2 x 18650 would fry the driver in a heartbeat or would the switch be able to provide enough resistance to let the driver and also the led survive? Who wants to go first? lol

I’m also wondering if just switching the emitter for a U2 or even U3 would give it about as much extra oomph and efficiency as anything else that could be done to it.

You may feel that your mod was not worth the effort .

But we love to see all of your mods and we all learn a lot and are inspired by your build threads .

Thanks , Old-Lumens .

If you run 2x 18650 in series it will probably fry the driver. That particular driver can only handle up to 4.5v iirc

The 3 Alkalines should be 4.5v with enough oomph to let the driver regulate. It doesn’t make sense. Weird one that :frowning:

Did I read it wrong or is it not giving out as much light as expected? If the modes on the driver aren’t working right, is it possible that it’s also limiting the amperage to the emitter?

Also, this:

I’ve got an extra East-092 driver from an HD2010 laying around. I wonder how that would handle 2 x 18650.

You’ve probably hit the nail on the head. A driver issue is the only thing that makes any sense to me.