Review: Digital Projector LED Spotlight Cree T6

That’s excellent, but I don’t know if it’ll handle the heat generated. I’ll get the internal photos posted later on for you to see.

I will try to make a Heatsink with contact to the outer alu. :wink:

Andi, then you’ll want to see these photos of the internals.

Evidently, this light uses a different way of conducting heat by conducting it into the large cavity behind the reflector. Not a great way to do it especially since the body is aluminum and could have aided in heat dissipation. But from using the light, I’d say the manufacturer decided to take advantage of this very large aluminum reflector in addition to that heat sink mounted at the rear of the reflector, and both serve to absorb heat. I have used the light on high mode for a while, but didn’t notice the reflector becoming saturated with heat at all.

I’m sure that’ll change once I get to upgrading the driver to turn it into even more of a thrower. I’m hoping you’ll be able to come up with an idea that’ll work well. It’s a great little light and very well made, including very nice silicone wiring of sufficient gauge that does not require replacement.


Driver attached to rear heat sink.


Underside view of heat sink. NOTE: there are two types of heat sinks floating around on these lights. Second version is a
closed design, unlike this flared version.


Circuit board that controls all functions, including connection to battery, On/Off switch, and charge functions.

Thanks, really like such a format light. Could you measure at 15-20 metres and see what’s the lux reading? (I can convert it for ya) That’d give us a more accurate figure.

I wanted to get this 19.5cm ext diameter T6, but i am not sure if the reflector is optimised. Not cheap too, so decided not to take the risk.

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2933-10w-led-searchlight-flashlight-light-outdoor/665070420.html

Take your HD2010 and ceiling bounce it. Take the lux reading.

Take this light and ceiling bounce it. Take the lux reading.

Not sure what’s the OTF output lumens of the HD2010 though. You have other lights like SWM T40CS? You can get a pretty ok OTF lumens by relatively comparing them.

I’ll get the lux reading tonight for you. As for this 7.5 inch reflectored light, I’d say it’s driven the same as the Projector light, but has an even larger reflector. Damn that’s big…LOL. Good candidate to upgrade the lead acid battery in it for a nice li-ion too. I saved that link for a future purchase.

I really love the light and build quality inside and out is really amazing considering the price. They actually used the same large diameter silicone wiring I use to upgrade the lousy 30 gauge wiring in most all my Chinese lights. One upside of the lead acid battery is you get proper output from the XM-L, but you don’t have to worry about any unsafe battery conditions. But as I mentioned in an earlier post, I’m still upgrading the battery to some Redilast cells.

I originally purchased 2 of these light, one from BangGood.com (gold color) and one Red one from an Ebay seller. Not having dealt with either vendor before, I just assumed they’d both be damaged when arrived, but having two, I’d be able to fix one with parts from both and the reason for having two of them. As it turned out, the one from BangGood was shipped in the original box and very well packaged and arrived MINT. However, the Red version from the Ebay seller was taken out of its original box and placed in a box smaller than what the light required. Although it somehow didn’t arrive damaged, when I opened the box, it was in some sort of moon-light mode, which it doesn’t have. It could have even left the factory in this malfunctioning condition. It was the lowest moon-light mode I’ve even seen. So it obiously had or developed a short somewhere.

It wouldn’t turn off and could actually have been in this mode for weeks, so the red one I needed to take apart and fix the issue, which I did. So it’s the red version that’s getting some upgrades while it’s apart.

To play it safe, just purchase from BangGood, they seem very into having some BLF business.

Thanks richie for getting me the lux reading! :slight_smile:

As for the 19.5 cm ext diameter searchlight, the issue is that the reflector is not really deep. Yeah i know that the diameter is the main factor in determing throw (focus whatever)….but if you see most of the usual aluminum body T6 lights, the reflectors are of a certain profile (quite deep) which is somewhat similar to the aluminum body searchlight that you have just purchased.

That Zuke 2933 searchlight’s reflector profile is really like those HID/halogen searchlight. So seriously i do not know if it’d throw even as well as your light.

So i’ll probably get one if yours is > 100k cd. :smiley:

I do see your point with reflector depth and fully agree. Still, I was very surprised to see the beam profile was quite tight down-stream when compared to some of the lights I used in my beam shots in an earlier post. If powered the same as say, a TN31, would it throw as tight and as far, I can’t say, but I think it would make a great experiment for sure and still be inpressive.

The only thing I’m not sure about because I haven’t actually removed the LED and driver, I’m not exactly sure how the LED receives power since the wires are not mounted to the top of the star as a typical light would be. I’ve never had a light in this configuraton where the wires are obviously underneath the LED somehow. But one thing for sure, as soon as I get the battery upgrade done and works correctly, it’s going to get a driver upgrade and one of my XM-L2 installed. Just a matter of time now.

FYI, I googled zk2933, looked at images and found it is also sold w/ halogen bulb.

It’s basically a Thor 6mcp body i read.

Anyway, here’s the budgetlight forum link to that 2933 LED searchlight.

Thank´s Richie086 for pictures! :beer:

….this “2933 10w led searchlight flashlight” look also very interesting. :weary:

Talk about a thermally challenged light. :expressionless:

I hope there is a clear path way between the rear of the reflector and the AL body. Maybe you could get a thick piece of aluminum or copper plate and cut it to the shape of the host to replace the wimpy heat sink. If it has a good tight fit, a thin coating of AA might do the trick in transferring heat to the host. Failing that, perhaps a used heat pipe from a PC with a small hole drilled through the side of the case (for the pipe) and the heat exchanger arranged under the host. Bend the pipes to position the heat exchanger where you want it.

The spot beam looks great!

Yes, it has a clear path to the aluminum body, nothing but air behind it. I’m going to look into additional sinking very shortly and see what I can come up with. But as it is stock, the light works great. Naturally if changing out this crazy driver configuration it has, heat could be a problem if used on high mode for a long time. Thank for the input.

As I previously mentioned, I’ll likely keep this light at 4.2 volts and find a driver that operates at that voltage since there are many good ones around. But I did want to toss the 4 volt 7500mAh lead acid battery.

I decided to go with one of Fasttech’s 1S4P battery holders, and with a little tweeking, and some Redilast 18650 3100mAh cells, created a 4.2 volt, 12400mAh battery pack. With the balance of the light in stock condition, this is far more capacity than required, but I don’t intend to keep it at the present output :bigsmile:

Only issue thus far is the stock charging circuit inside the light doesn’t speak the same language as a Li-ion charger, so for now, I’ll have to remove the pack for charging, which shouldn’t be required often with this much capacity. I’m going to toss the pack in later tonight and then plan out the next mod. One big difference now is the Redilast Li-ion cells don’t have the voltage sag the lead acid battery had. When turned on HIGH mode, the voltage just hangs out steady :wink:


This is what I used 1S4P holder


Assembled a 12400mAh 4.2 volt power pack.


This new pack is replacing the large 4 volt lead acid battery.

Is the reflector/heatsink 1 piece?

I had a light w/ similar (looking) emitter/driver setup. the reflector didn’t have a hole in it, except for where some little short rods went through, and the emitter/driver were soldered to those rods.

that made changing the emitter in mine difficult (i cut the whole base of the reflector off with dremel).

anyway, if it is all 1 piece, connecting the reflector to the aluminum body might be easier than connecting the heatsink itself. although, that’s kind of a long, thin thermal path…

If its 3/8” copper (or thicker), it should have no problems conducting heat that amount of distance. Lots of heat sinks and copper material to pick through on ebay. The best solution would be a heat pipe setup, but will probably take a lot of work and imagination to make it work properly.

Then there is always the solution of an internal fan and vents cut through the side of the host for cross-ventilation.

I can’t tell yet if they are one piece, I just assumed the heatsink and driver were placed together using some sort of thermal epoxy. But from the LED side, it seems to look as if the LED is riveted somehow. So maybe you are correct. I’ll try separating the reflector and heat sink and see how they are together.

Having upgraded to the Redilast cells and tossing the lead acid battery, the light has lost so much weight, it feels like a cheap light now at only 760 grams. You can barely feel it in the hand. Oh well.

Bro, remember to get the lux readings @ 10-15m distances. A aliexpress shop can send it out before Chinese New Year, and i shall receive it a few weeks later. :slight_smile: