It’s basically a Thor 6mcp body i read.
Anyway, here’s the budgetlight forum link to that 2933 LED searchlight.
Thank´s Richie086 for pictures! 
….this “2933 10w led searchlight flashlight” look also very interesting. :weary:
Talk about a thermally challenged light. 
I hope there is a clear path way between the rear of the reflector and the AL body. Maybe you could get a thick piece of aluminum or copper plate and cut it to the shape of the host to replace the wimpy heat sink. If it has a good tight fit, a thin coating of AA might do the trick in transferring heat to the host. Failing that, perhaps a used heat pipe from a PC with a small hole drilled through the side of the case (for the pipe) and the heat exchanger arranged under the host. Bend the pipes to position the heat exchanger where you want it.
The spot beam looks great!
Yes, it has a clear path to the aluminum body, nothing but air behind it. I’m going to look into additional sinking very shortly and see what I can come up with. But as it is stock, the light works great. Naturally if changing out this crazy driver configuration it has, heat could be a problem if used on high mode for a long time. Thank for the input.
As I previously mentioned, I’ll likely keep this light at 4.2 volts and find a driver that operates at that voltage since there are many good ones around. But I did want to toss the 4 volt 7500mAh lead acid battery.
I decided to go with one of Fasttech’s 1S4P battery holders, and with a little tweeking, and some Redilast 18650 3100mAh cells, created a 4.2 volt, 12400mAh battery pack. With the balance of the light in stock condition, this is far more capacity than required, but I don’t intend to keep it at the present output :bigsmile:
Only issue thus far is the stock charging circuit inside the light doesn’t speak the same language as a Li-ion charger, so for now, I’ll have to remove the pack for charging, which shouldn’t be required often with this much capacity. I’m going to toss the pack in later tonight and then plan out the next mod. One big difference now is the Redilast Li-ion cells don’t have the voltage sag the lead acid battery had. When turned on HIGH mode, the voltage just hangs out steady 
This is what I used 1S4P holder
Assembled a 12400mAh 4.2 volt power pack.
This new pack is replacing the large 4 volt lead acid battery.
Is the reflector/heatsink 1 piece?
I had a light w/ similar (looking) emitter/driver setup. the reflector didn’t have a hole in it, except for where some little short rods went through, and the emitter/driver were soldered to those rods.
that made changing the emitter in mine difficult (i cut the whole base of the reflector off with dremel).
anyway, if it is all 1 piece, connecting the reflector to the aluminum body might be easier than connecting the heatsink itself. although, that’s kind of a long, thin thermal path…
If its 3/8” copper (or thicker), it should have no problems conducting heat that amount of distance. Lots of heat sinks and copper material to pick through on ebay. The best solution would be a heat pipe setup, but will probably take a lot of work and imagination to make it work properly.
Then there is always the solution of an internal fan and vents cut through the side of the host for cross-ventilation.
I can’t tell yet if they are one piece, I just assumed the heatsink and driver were placed together using some sort of thermal epoxy. But from the LED side, it seems to look as if the LED is riveted somehow. So maybe you are correct. I’ll try separating the reflector and heat sink and see how they are together.
Having upgraded to the Redilast cells and tossing the lead acid battery, the light has lost so much weight, it feels like a cheap light now at only 760 grams. You can barely feel it in the hand. Oh well.
Bro, remember to get the lux readings @ 10-15m distances. A aliexpress shop can send it out before Chinese New Year, and i shall receive it a few weeks later. 
Hi 2100, it’s been pour rain here, so I wasn’t able to do it. Hopefully getting it to you tomorrow won’t be to late.
No problem at all man, let me know.
I noticed that the spill of the Digital projector T6 searchlight is quite a bit less than the HD2010.
So Richie, would you pls do a ceiling bounce test with the light meter on both the FF HD2010 (I reckon driven at ~ 3.5A) and also this Digital Projector T6?
In doing so, seriously there is no need to do a current measurement at the LED. Coz we are just interested in the OTF lumens.
With my Fandyfire HD-2010 on high mode at 3.60a I was getting 357 lux.
The Digital Projector on high under the same conditions was 220 lux.
Hope this helps.
Yep, I took the red one apart that it has 4 rods, one at each corner of the start that pass through the reflector and connect to the driver. The reflector is one solid piece. This type of star setup and driver is something I’ve never delt with before. So I’m not sure how I’m going to up the power to really take full advantage of this huge reflector. I do know with the battery mod I made, it would be worth it if it can be figured out.
edited post to keep things on topic
Thanks flashpilot. I’m noting all these suggestions to see which will be the most viable. Since I have 2 extra XM-L2 LED’s, I’m going to see about installing one of them after I figure out a proper heatsink.
you just made me realize - it is an xm-l in there…
I bet they’ve got the position of it dialed in pretty well.
if you could figure out how to improve heatsinking w/o removing the mcpcb that’s already in there, you could reflow the xml2 to that board. I’d certainly take it out to do that…since electroplating might not like those temps.
Any time Richie. Im sure others will continue to chime in as well. Do you have any pics of the inside of the body taken apart? I assume it opens up in two pieces? Id like to see what the inside looks like and what you have to work with.
Your beam shot from that great reflector makes it all seem worth while.
Here are some interior photos of what I’m dealing with.
XM-L and 5500k-6000k
Rear of star and 4 contact points.
Underside of heatsink for Led and driver. Shown is side LED contact points press or solder into.
Rear side of aluminum reflector to attach driver/heatsink to. Reflector is not thick in this area.
This RED version I received didn’t have quite the precise focus of the Gold one. After removing
the LED, the contact point seemed slightly off center.
Just a photo showing one-piece handle unit.
Aluminum housing shows screw threads for handle attachment. With my new 18650 battery pack,
there is now an extra 1/3 more interior room not having the lead acid battery anymore.