You guys just have to show me what I missed out on… 3 failed attempts to buy these on sale. And the latest weird wallbuys sale don’t seem to have this one as well.
Seems like a good host. 400lm is respectable amount of light, especially coming from real 7W input. This should be a good electric-saver light. I’m starting to like this already.
Thanks for the great review, relic! I do hope to see some measurements using 240V though, see if the driver give more output there. Maybe werner can chime in as he had this light as well.
So far the LED floodlights are a disappointment. Like you said, expect 400ish lumen output which really sucks to be honest.
A 100W halogen will produce a good 1600 lumens, and you can get a Floodlight with a motion sensor and THREE of them for what…40 bucks?
Its not like they are always on, so the life of the bulb is less relevant, as is the power consumption. 225 watts is weaksauce compared to a washer/dryer or your AC.
edit: Look at this bad boy. 500 Watts of floodlight goodness.
You have to lay down a LOT of scratch to get an actual decent LED floodlight/spotlight currently.
Thanks for the great review Relic. Im going to hold off with my XML conversions until I have a chance to relic-resistor-mod the seven floodlights I already have. I agree… these were a great buy for the housings alone. The overall quality is rather impressive.
True for the triple T6s. A single 12V EZ-W only cost <$5 shipped though, I wonder who else have them for that price.
You think that driver is constant power buck driver? A single T6/U2/U3 will sustain 10W easily, if the driver bucks the output to 4V x 2.5A that’s still gonna be 700+ lumens.
Need to be sure about the driver though, so that it won’t cook the new LED.
3R00 and 1R20 appear to be in parallel. I dont have a small enough soldering iron or reheat station for SMD work. I know I can get those two resistors off with my soldering iron but will probably destroy them in the process. Can I remove both resistors and use a single larger one like this? (taken from a CheapThrills post)
What resistor would I need to giver close to 1.0A emitter current?
OR
Even better, could a 10 ohm pot work with both resistors removed? Then I could dial in the precise current. If the driver overheats, I could reduce the current without having to replace resistors. Are these a good alternative for continuous long term duty? http://www.fasttech.com/products/1009/10000077/1224400
For thermal management, I was considering ditching the plastic driver case all together and affixing the back side of the board directly to the metal housing with a thick round dab of fujic or silicon (pressing very lightly and kept level to maintain electrical isolation). As for the hot diode, I was thinking about using a copper penny. 1982 or earlier pennys were 95% copper before they went to the zinc pennies. The lights will be mounted high up and out of reach, so Im not to worried about potential failures. I do intend to ground them properly.
What would be your advice? Thanks for helping a resistor newb.
I'm a little confused on the resistor mod. Are you paralleling two new resistors on top of the existing ones (which is what it looks like in the photos), or are you removing and replacing one of them (which is what it sounds like from the text)? Can you post a close-up of the resistors after the mod?
Oops, missed your post somehow! Sry.
If you cannot remove the resistor, add a 1.2 Ohm for 0.5 Ohm total (1.0A emitter current) , or 1.5 Ohm for 0.545 Ohm total (0.9A emitter current). Any value between these should be fine too.
I would not use a pot, they are not rated for these kinds of currents.
Wallbuys price has been $13.54 for a while. So unless there’s a sale later, one may look at Sunsky - this similar floodlight is for $10.90 shipped (to MY). Though the shipping cost may change based on your location.
As shipped, the Earth ground wire is unconnected. I tried to use it, but it’s too thin and very springy, like it os not pure copper. On the one that I swapped out the cord, I used one of the screws the hold the enclosure together as a ground screw. It works, but probably not UL approved.
I am a bit backlogged on updates; too many new toys came in after this ;). I plan to open this up one more time and I’ll try to get a shot of the wire.
Even with the small line current, I still recommend users replace the cord; it just doesn’t feel safe to me.
3 failed attempts to buy these on sale. And the latest weird wallbuys sale don’t seem to have this one as well.
