Modding My Lawnmower Headlights to two XM-Ls (& misc info)

How would you drive one of those in a Mag? What driver and how many cells?

-Garry

Garry Here's some USA based components. Just some ideas for you.

3Up Indus Star

Carlco 3Up Optic

CPU Fan/Heat Sink or this one, less money

I can't find a driver right off hand. Only in China

http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S020079

http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S020148

The heatsink is only an example, there's lots of CPU heatsinks with 12v fans on them, for less money.

IMO, this is by far the best and most obvious solution. DX and many others have them as well. Dirt cheap, mega-lumens per watt, huge choice of tints and wattage, variable voltage tolerant, vibration resistant and simple installation. How many amps is your alternator rated for?

Buy a couple of the cheapest 10W Chinese wall wash floodlights that you can find (say $10-$15) and mount your LEDs and drivers in them. The housings are really nice for these sorts of things.

BTW, E1320’s Kaidomain driver link says it is only 1A…

Automotive supplies are notoriously ‘noisy’, full of voltage spikes that can fry electronic components. Im not sure exactly, but I think that a Transient Voltage Suppressor between the mower and led driver circuit will help protect.

Im sure the more electronic savvy members will be able help with this, maybe….

Woody

I have no idea. I wanted to stay under what the stock bulbs were pulling. Now I can't remember what stock wattage was, but I am using (2) 27 watt bulbs now. So that's roughly 54 watts/12volts = 4.5A. Right?

That's an idea that came about after this thread was posted and I already purchased the KD drivers, emitters, and optics. Have done nothing with them yet, but I have them! :) Maybe some day! I even thought about those chinese MR16 LED bulbs as-is (highest rated output I can find), but I don't think they'd be bright enough.

I do need to take a closer look at the voltage being fed to the current bulbs and do some monitoring.

-Garry

Now, nowhere have I read anyone of you asking what really should be the most important Q’s in this thread… One, how much HP does the tractor have and how big is its cutting deck radius?

C’mon, this is the USA?!

PS I am wondering what is in my mail today

for stuff like this i use a 5v regulator from radioshack and resistors. you could use a 3-way toggle switch and two sets of resistors for high/low… that’s about the easiest way

I would need an exact parts list and details on exactly how to build it before I could do that.

-Garry

This should work. You can get them in many different voltages and amperages. I used this guy’s write up and its worked pretty well so far. I used it on an old dirt bike to step down the voltage for some off-road lights. I didn’t go the high/low route though. I’m guessing you could just get a lower rated resistor/regulator to wire to a 3 way switch for the low.

Actually I have extras too. I have a 5v, 6v and 8v. They are all rated for 1.5 amps. If you want I can mail them out, they are no use to me anymore.

I used some magnetic clamp LED lights that I bought from Northern Hydraulics on a very old and ratty tractor. Worked great, not as budget though. We also used some pipe clamp adaptors to add more lights on the back as well. He effectively has a $1000 light system on a $500 tractor.

Next project like yours is LED on my snowblower - do I need it, no. Do I want it, yes!

Haha I didn’t even think of putting them on a snowblower, that would be awesome. There are tons of these things with Cree XMLs on ebay. If you search for 10w cree work light you’ll turn up a bunch.

I use a bicycle clamp accessory w a number of SF, UF501 size lights, more for fun than need, as the snow really reflects back even the anemic output of the little auto lamp in my blower. Been using a MC-E drop in, wish I had a few more.

But the mind is always working, wondering…wanting more.

Yeah, I've thought of making a light for my snowblower (currently has no light, but has 12v AC output wires) too, but I haven't even got to the lawnmower yet! I need to check the lawnmower and make sure it's 12v DC. It should be, right?

-Garry

Like you, more a noodler than a project guy. Wiring diagrams…hmn, whats that?

On this old snow plowing tractor, the magnet clamp lights were a very effective, simple and right now fix for having no lights - everything was gone, rusted or inoperable. Battery connectors, in line fuse, electric tape, we were in business. And the clamp lights very useful for repairs and fine tuning of ancient equipment - lots of that, along w lots of inventive cursing.

I found a kit online that uses your choice of 1-3 up emitters, direct wire to switch, metal body and clamp included…going to do that over the summer if my buddy throws me his credit card, will be only slightly more expensive than using handheld lights, which after a few usages, gets old. But you need it hardwired, need a switch on/off maybe high-low too.

And then mistakes learned, I will bling out the snowthrower for next winter.

Yeah pretty sure the riding lawnmower output is converted to DC. Best to check anyways. I think all stator output is AC, but its then rectified and regulated to DC. If you have AC output its a cheap radio shack rectifier away from being DC.

Found this browsing the other day. Looks like a cheap way to power some XMLs.

Thanks! That looks pretty nice. I'll keep it in mind if my current driver doesn't work out.

-Garry

Ok, a little complication. Measured the voltage output to the existing mower headlights and got from about 18.0 to 18.25v AC! The bulbs are standard 12v #1156's.

So what is my simplest way to either convert from AC to DC (simple - i.e. a person with limited electronics understanding can do - a "module" would be nice) to utilize with my existing 3v to 18v driver or is there a better choice of a driver to work from 18v AC input?

-Garry

I have the same project in mind, interesting thread, I think that the right driver is this one

http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=1706while