I just bought one. I would suggest if anybody wants these, probably jump on it.
They were $6.50 and got sold out. Asked to have them relisted, waited a day for IS to get another order confirmed and these went up to $8.89 with shipping, after they sold sold 63 pieces in one day.
Wrote them I’m not going to buy it for that price since they have been much cheaper especially when I want just 1 piece. Got them discounted to $7.49 with shipping.
So if anybody wants one, go ahead, I don’t know how long they will stay cheaper.
They do make packs/add solder tabs for free as well if you want to make yourself a pack for some device! Which I find a really great option.
They also have the lower rated 20Q version with “only” 15A rating. In my opinion they are probably 2nd tier batteries, you know, Samsung sorts batteries based on internal resistance or something, some factor that determines how hard discharge they can handle.
The older Samsung INR cells are rated higher but dont hold up to high discharge so well. There are reviews of the -13 and -15 cells out there and based on them, I ruled them out. When I was told that these cells are used in power tool packs by German manufacturers, I had to get some and I wasnt disappointed.
Also, low amperage tests are boring. ;)
3A:
2A (no AW, sorry):
1A:
As you can see, there are better cells for lower currents.
I updated the first post with a graph containing all curves of the Samsung.
You may link the pictures, but please refer to this thread if you do so.
I was just wondering, what happens if you use these high capacity cells in a light that is direct drive, will the high discharge rate be too much for a single emitter or will they only deliver what the emitter wants to pull?
The current the emitter pulls is determined by the forward voltage. Now if the cell holds a high voltage under load, it might pump lots of amps into a single emitter. So in direct drive lights I'm sure you would kill most LEDs using this cell.
Doesn’t look to me like the Amp rates given in that chart SC would allow the Panny to deliver even an hour of decent output from an XM-L2. Forward voltage would sag so quickly all the effort for copper heatsinks and star boards would be lost due to being driven by a quickly weak cell.
Like I said, I’m learning so be nice….but that’s what it looks like from this neck o the woods. Am I missing something?
Ah yes, It’s always the sum of the parts, as much as it is the parts themselves. These are the things that make this such a learning experience. The combinations that make it work just so.
Sometimes elusive, like finding which Particular powder and which Particular bullet at which Particular recipe your new Particular gun likes the most. Fun finding it, but it can be a daunting and elusive mix finding the equation that meets the required parameters. And when it’s found, Sweeeeet!
Thanks for the input, will try to keep all this in mind as I delve deeper into modding my new HD2010.
And by the way Nightcrawl, for once, a rare occasion indeed, I’m letting my intelligence pursuade my stubborness that melting copper is not in the near future for me.
Yeah, I bet. I found plenty of video showing how to go about it, which is why my intelligence won over. Just barely smart enough to realize that I do not want molten copper poured on my foot or anywhere else in near proximity to my body for a tiny little dimple in the back of an already copper star. Might could accomplish it, but what’s it worth?
So much to learn, a priority among those being to not be too stubborn to learn it.