I am closing this sale thread. It has turned into a mess, (my fault) and I am going to try again later maybe, when all the dust settles, or maybe on CPF (doubtful).
Up for sale are two modified lights. The Defiant brand "C" flashlight and the Defiant brand "D" flashlight. Please review the thread on these lights. It has a lot of info on the builds and beam shots of the two lights.
Summary:
The Defiant "C" light has the original reflector, a glass lens, a Cree XM-L2 T6 3C LED, a 12x7135 NANJG driver with three modes H/M/L. It uses a Maglite C switch and a Maglite C tail cap spring. The springs have the low resistance mods. The pill has been filled with copper for a heat sink. The light uses three 4/5 Sub-C NiMH batteries in a pack and you will need a hobby charger to charge them.
The Defiant "D" light has the original reflector (stippled now), a glass lens, a Cree XM-L2 T6 3C LED, a 10x7135 NANJG driver with three modes H/M/L. It has a Maglite 2D body and uses the Maglite D switch and tail cap spring. The heat sink is aluminum. The light uses three Sub-C NiMH batteries in a pack and you will need a hobby charger to charge them.
DEFIANT "D" IS SOLD!
Price on the "C" Defiant is $70 $60 Shipped CONUS. Battery packs are included with the lights. DEFIANT "D" IS SOLD!
If an International buyer really wants to pay the high costs, then it's a possibility. I will consider shipping a light out of the US, but be advised the shipping costs will be high! International would be an additional $15 for regular airmail and Registered (Registered is Optional) would be an additional $13. That's a LOT of money! $60+$15+(optional$13) Whew!
Payment is PayPal. oldlumens(insert the @ sign here)gmail.com is the paypal addy.
Post here which light you are taking and follow it with a payment and a PM to me, with your full name and address.
The Defiant C on Mouse Out and the Defiant D on Mouse Over. Two totally different beams. The Def C sort of looks blue, but it's not, it's just the fact that most all of the light is concentrated into a small spot, where the Def D beam is spread apart by the stippling.
If the tint in real life looks anything like in the pics, it ought to be gorgeous. If I could spare the cash right now…the side switch upgrade doubles the appeal over the stock 3D light.
Take your LUX reading at M meters. To calculate the equivalent reading at one meter calculate:
LUX times M times M
For a sanity check compare the calculated 1 meter readings taken at different distances. They should be close. If they are not, then most likely the beam profile has not leveled out at the closer distances and you need to take the readings at a farther distance.
To calculate throw distance, take the calculated 1 meter LUX reading, multiply it by 4, and then take the square root of that number. That is the throw distance in meters (when the lux reading should be 0.25 lux).
Old-Lumens,
The ANSI FL-1 standard dictates that throw is the maximum distance a light is supposed to paint 0.25 lux on a target.
The 3D’s reading you took at 10m is equivalent to 28kCd, good for 335m of throw to 0.25 lux.
The 3C’s reading you took at 10m is equivalent to 80kCd, which is good for 566m of throw to 0.25 lux.
As texaspyro pointed out, you’ll find that you get a more representative reading further away, especially when larger-reflectored lights such as these come into play.
Depending upon the beam profile, it might not be a peak. The calculated 1 meter readings could be increasing or decreasing as you move farther out, but at some distance they should settle down to a reasonably constant value.
Also, you want to take the reading at the brightest point of the beam. That may not always be apparent to the naked eye. Move your meter around and hunt out the hotest spot.
I could not read the meter and aim the light at the same time, so I enlisted my wife. Picture her with her back to me and the meter sensor hanging over her shoulder, on her back, while she reads the meter itself, as I aim the lights at her back. I did move the beams around and she recorded the highest reading from each.
Yes, especially in the case of these two lights with honkin’ big reflectors. You’d find a measuring distance that gives readings close to the maximum throw potential. Any further than that yields minimal returns.
We can use the throw equation,
ANSI Throw = SquareRoot[(lux reading*distance from lux meter*distance from lux meter)÷(0.25 lux)]
and the readings you took to demonstrate this idea.
For the 3D’s reading you took at 2m:
Throw = SquareRoot[(2490)(2)(2)÷(0.25)] = 200m
Compare this to the 335m of throw obtained by the 10m reading. The 10m reading more closely represents the true throw of which the light is capable.
I should have been more clear. 10^2 is ten squared or 10 times 10. As everyone else has said, simply multiply your meter eading by the distance squared to get equivalent 1m reading. The throw formula is a post or two above this.