Review: BTU Shocker (3 x XM-L T6 NW | 3 x 18650)

Guess you’ll be waiting awhile then.

LOL. This thing rocks the TN31 as far as output goes, has almost identical throw, and costs less than the Thrunite already. I don’t get the hate.

Anyone who doesnt have one loves to hate on them. Curious…

Dale, I’m working on going your direction on the BTU. Maybe a step beyond. I’ve already got my copper sink pads, have XM-L2’s ordered from two different places - hopefully one will make it by the end of the month, but who knows.
And I think I have found a UCL lens for it too. I have it ordered anyway, just have to get it in, make sure it fits, and do comparison testing.
XM-L2 U2’s on copper sink pads, along with a UCL lens - I can see it being in the 3400-3600 otf range and would keep its lumens higher for longer with better heat dissipation. And all of that would be without any more stress on the batteries or runtime.
I assume nobody has has any XM-L2 U2’s on hand I could buy or borrow, so I don’t have to wait a month or whatever for mine to come in?

People always pay more to be the first kid on the block with the latest toy. Been that way forever. Like any other retailer I know of, initial retail is always highest to capitalize on this fact. Anyone who wants the best price waits a few months for the initial price to lower. That's what most folks here did because they all knew it would happen. It always does. Sometimes it only takes a month, sometimes nearly a year. I can understand you kicking yourself for being an early adopter, I know I'd be kicking myself too, but to get pissed at the seller is ridiculous. Ric is a business man and is in the business of making a living, not giving stuff away. He created this light and the BTU brand himself and worked to make the light a reality. He has the right to make all the money he can off of his work. As sales at $180 slow to a trickle you lower the price to get the next market segment who weren't ready to spend $180 but thought $150 was a great deal. Now we are down to $120 and eventually we might see $100 and possibly even less. You spending the $180 is no one's fault but your own. Stop complaining.

Now the light not having an AR coated lens is a legitimate issue and Ric should either offer a partial refund for the false advertising or ship the advertised lens to all those who've bought the light and either ship an AR lens with all future sales or remove it from the advertised specs. The rest of the light is just like advertised and you knew exactly what you were paying $180 for.

Ah the 120 dollar is a has Dry drivers or Directdrive for 4.5 amps. Whereas the original had it’s own drivers.

I wanted to have it at that time and I have got it for the price it was sold then. I might be up for another one if the price goes below 100 bucks.

No, it has

BTU driver (current regulated, 3.8A)

or

DRY driver (direct-drive, up to 4.5A)

I ordered the standard BTU driver, and I’d recommend that. It’s resistor mod capable to get up to 4+ amps anyway. This way you know what current you are getting. Most people report that it’s not a huge jump anyway.

Relic, you have any details on the doing the resistor mods. I assume that’s what dale did to his, but just don’t know much about it. If I can get the XM-L2’s on copper sink pads, they should be about to safely handle a little more amps before getting to hot. 4.2A or so would be killer!
And if you do the resistor mod, do you think it will do the little step down like you have observed?

If you need 4+ amps per LED, You can get only 1-5 minutes.
Because 3x18650 Vin and all LED Vf aren’t much different.
other factor… V sag , Driver and Springs V drop ……

That why I still not to pull the trigger!!! (May be I will If BTU come with 4x18650s battery tube)

So… the light doesn’t have an AR lens, contrary to its advertisement?

Well I still don’t mind the stock 3.6-3.8a range. With the XM-L2’s on copper, with UCL lens it still should in the mid 3000’s.
Not sure if you saw my BTU clip, but it was still was doing about 2500otf after almost 22min kept on turbo almost the full time. My 3400mah protected Keeppowers were reading about 3.84V after I stopped the test. So driven at stock levels, with copper sinkpads and XM-L2 U2’s and UCL or ar lens, I would expect it to stay above 3000otf on turbo until batteries are depleted. Likely, what 30-40min at that level before the batteries get too low? Anyway, good enough for me. I didn’t take buy this light to take on long hikes and such. Besides after modding even after it kicks down, it should have perhaps a 2300-2500 lumen high, and with that it should last a good hour on good cells.
Plus with this planned upgrade, it might get another 50meter throw if I’m lucky.

As far as most owners think, no. I can not detect any coating myself. And my testing without the lens increased about 120otf on weak batteries. So if its an AR lens, its a poor one. With an AR lens this light will do the full 3000otf after 30sec.

I forget what I seen when I was in there. I might have posted about it somewhere. I suspect the minor amount of sag is driver temperature related. It takes about 60 seconds or so to stabilize.
It has nothing to do with batteries; I tested it on a bench power supply.
When I get to the point of doing a mod I’ll be picking a final turbo current, and using a resistor mod that gives me that current after 60 seconds. The initial 200-300mA of extra punch while cold should not be an issue. I’ll also document it so others can know what I did and decide if it’s what they want to do. i still need to order emitters though…

^this!!

I was planning to mod my BTU, but after using it in light painting a castle I decided to keep it as stock. It's a great "brush" for light painting large objects which are far away.

But I still want to mod it with some de-domed high bin XM-L2s on copper.. So buying another starts to sound good. But then again, having two stock BTUs would be even better for some light painting situations -> do I really need three of them? ;)

Now that’s a very cool, but expensive way of thinking. I still don’t understand the negative view many have on this light. Playing with a 700m, 3000 lumen light IS impressive. If one is not impressed with that, I just don’t understand why they are in this hobby.
Anyway, another $120 BTU to keep stock, sounds sweeter by the day.

Wow! Great service from Ric/Fancyflashlights.com.

I ordered my BTU on March 1, 2013, and it arrived March 7, 2013, to California via Fed Ex! As far as I’m concerned I paid 100.00 for the light and $20.00 for expedited shipping. VERY IMPRESSIVE!

Oh, and the light is outstanding! Solid design with a nice retro feel. I didn’t have a chance to try it out last night because I need to charge my cells but I will tonight. Indoors during the day it’s still a beast!

None of my holsters fit it, unfortunately. I’ll have to find one online.

I’ll compare it with my Jetbeam DDR30 when I can.

I highly recommend it!

From a neutral viewpoint, not got one myself, but have seen one alongside a TK70 in action and they were both indeed impressive, but for me the form factor of both of them does not fit in with my present preferences.

My concern with the shocker at the time wasn’t with the performance but in closeup a light that at the time was £120 odd quid, would then be for a uker an extra £24 vat plus the iniquitous PO charging £8 to collect the vat, that would make the shocker about £8 less then I could get a TK75 over here. And I am sorry to say the build quality did not match that price. Now though the price would be around the £105 mark and that certainly moves it up the approval list.

Like most things the hate is proportional to the loving, you can’t take the tribe/team out of human beings.

changed the led to xml u3 now and am satisfied with the btu output.got no light meter but i think its way above 3000 lumens .i can see the diffrence.I think 3 u3 driven at 3.8 amps should give around 3500 lumens???? ! AND I USED A SILVER ARTIC THERMAL PASTE . now the whole light feels warm within minutes on turbo .I guess that means heat is getting transferred from the leds better then what the fujic stuff did . iused the 20mm star since it was cheaper then the 16mm for some reason

bought the u3 from fasstech https://www.fasttech.com/products/1189702


thought it would be easy breezyy . unfortunately i got into trouble early on! Now the previous star was 16mm and was stuck with fujic .I desoldered the wires first ,used a long nose to "twist" the star and the fujic glue let go . the u3 i used has 20mm star . soldered them in series . plugged them onto the reflector .i had earlier desoldered the positive/negative wires from the driver . and then spread some silver arctic thermal paste

.inserted the 2 wires in through the second hole and slowly placed reflector and the emmiters kept popping out that. so i mixed a bit of epoxy locktite e-60hp and placed tiny amouts on he edges of the star so its remains in position fitted onto the reflector as i lowered in onto its seat.it works nicely

.once it was seated i marked on the reflector and then on the head as an "alignment" point thing so that when i screw the the reflector ,it does not move side ways. i screwed the reflector real tight to make a tight contact between the emmiter star and its base then soldered on the driver .all this took me about an hour .i used my 40 watt soldering iron since its a pain to melt the solder on the star while its seated on the aluminum.