I think that is a rebrand, not a clone. The driver looks exactly identical. I can’t say the innards are the same, but I would not be surprised if these lights are one in the same, different name.
Agreed, even tge lanyard looks the same.
I’m harbouring a plan of getting a hunk of copper, getting my dad to machine it to a press fit in the pill to carry both this driver and a direct bonded xm-l2 then use tge original driver as a contact board.
I have no sinkpads so I have to do it the hard way…
Looks good. Take that driver, replace all wire with 18 gauge, direct solder to contact board. Do the spring mod, and you should get 5A on fresh cells. Not sure for how long, but with a huge chunk o copper to work with, heat would not be an issue.
Another option apears to have presented itself…
What was needed for a sink pad? I’m still using that driver, I figure it’ll give 4.5a ish given my experience of the 4a version.
Hi relic, thanks for the detailed review. What is the diameter of the threaded part of the pill please?
Woody
- Pill Outer Diameter at threads: 31.7mm
- Pill Outer Diameter before threads: 33.1mm
- Pill Outer Diameter at driver flange: 34.0mm
- Head inner diameter at pill threads: 31.1mm
- Head inner Diameter before threads: 34.4mm
Info added to review as well. Thanks!
Thanks relic, I was worried that you might think I was taking the p1$$, as you had already provided so many other dimensions!
Woody
I’ve added some indoor beamshots to the review. They appear darker on here, maybe a Photobucket effect. I might have to reshoot them brighter than I see to adjust.
Thanks for the great review. I’ve been debating which one to get the HD2010 or this ZY-T08, but now I think it’s this one. I didn’t know they were so cheap at Fastech. thx
Thanks very much for the review! Frontpage’d and Sticky’d.
Great review relic! What size braid is that?
I have Soder-Wick #3, which measures in at 1.9mm wide. It carries oodles of current. I tested 5 inches of it once at 6A and it registered 18mV IIRC.
I’ve heard that Goot Wick is not as good, it might not be pure copper. I do not have that to try.
Soder-Wick is more expensive but works very well for ‘fixing’ springs, and its intended purpose. 
Edit: I get my Soder-Wick from Digi-Key.
That looks good, says pure copper too. The width is fine, too thick might be cumbersome to fit in the smaller springs.
Great! Thx.
Tom,
Is that 94k Lux with the xml2 domed or dedomed?
This forum is getting expensive
Chris
Thank you Relic.
A how-to would be tops!
Great review and back-up info. Legend.
New #'s on my mod'ed T08. My mod'ed ZY-T08 w/XM-L2 U2 SinkPAD, Nanjg @4.2A lost a 7135 somehow - maybe it never worked day one I'm think'n. Anyway, added another 7135, with the 2 Pana PD batts, measured 4.27A now, and measured output:
lumens - 1,395 @start, 1,366 @30 secs
throw: 100 kcd (broke the 100k barrier)
I did a lot of experimenting/testing with the AW IMR, Sanyo 2600's, Panasonic PD 2900's, and Samsung INR 1500's. Those Panasonic PD's from FT are outstanding for single cell or parallel cell XM-L2/SinkPAD's. A little better are the Samsung INR's - only got 2 from FT dirt cheap (pulled from a battery pack) @1500 mah. Ordered 3 more Samsung INR's at higher capacity off of eBay, and think I'll order more Pana PD's from FT -- excellent in the 7G9 and T08, plus my single cell mod'ed XinTD, UF C8, and UF-V3. The 7G9 did 125 kcd w/the 2 Samsung INR's and 1 Pana PD -- best #'s ever. The AW IMR does well but these batteries beat it. The Sanyo 2600's were a dissapointment, couldn't compete at all. Looked like marginally better than straight Panasonic 3100 and 3400 unprotected.
Important Issue: my FT T08 has a pretty poor loose pill - loosest threading I've ever seen in a flashlight, period. I looked at it a bit closer tonight, and it seems to barely grab the host threading. When it's fully screwed in and almost tightened up, it still has a bad wobble to it. Put thermal grease on the threads, doesn't really spread - again, worse I've seen, usually a little grease spreads through all the threads. Has anyone else seen this? Wonder if just a bad unit or bad batch. I loaded up the threads now with grease, hoping it will help. Tried copper tape, but couldn't get it to hang in there.
Hmm, I didn’t notice that until I just tired it. While screwing in the pill it is quite wobbly. there is quite a bit of space there. Once it tightens down, there seems to be good contact. I also put thermal compound on the threads right away, which may be whay I didnt notice it the first few times. Mine does spread the compound around, so maybe yours is worst than mine? Since you are getting real good thermal transfer (shown in the very good thermal sag results) I am not sure the impact is significant.
Maybe run a 5 minute test and see how it drops out. I suppose some dropout could be battery sage at that duration. Probably would need to run from a power supply…
Good results! Tom E did you also dedome the led or numbers are still with dome on?