Need advice on a switch mod.

I'm modding a Defiant 3C and keeping the forward switch set up. In the pictures below are, left std switch and right is the switch I plan on using. Hopefully this will run at around 5 amps. What I need to know is what should I be using to extend the tabs of the switch with. I was thinking a normal tin can as I should be able to solder that. Does anyone have any bright ideas. Thanks.

Use the tabs off the old switch?

The switches are probably about the same anyhow. Why not use the old one? Test it at 5 amps and see. It should take it.

Some of those switches can be pried apart. You could then take out the short tab and cut a replacement with a longer tab end. Even if you simply solder an extension I would still pull it apart first to avoid melting the switch housing.

The only reason I'm making a new one up is that you did not use the standard switch. I dont want to burn out the switch as this light when finished will be at any time be able to be returned to stock.

See above for not cutting the tabs. Good point at trying to pull the switch apart first before soldering. Lucky I bought two. Maybe I should of bought three.

I never use standard, LOL, but that does not mean, never mind...

Does the replacement switch you are using take 5 amps?

As already said, you should be able to pry the switch apart with an exacto knife blade (very carefully) and change out the tabs.

I do read what you say in words. Does not mean that I understand much of it.

I have no idea whether it will take 5 amps. If not I will have to use a switch that I get from MF. One of them has been running at 5 amps for months no problem. I would use one now but it does not suit the standard rubber boot. I would have to put a spacer between the boot and the switch which in the past I have not had much luck doing.

What OL said.

I dont know if I trust you Mr Rufusbduck? I'm a gullible type of person.

Sniff! I’m going to ignore that and try to confuse help you anyway. Can you get parts from Digikey? They have a huge selection of switches including Judco, some of which work with the 14-16mm boots. If you can find it but can’t order, maybe you could pm me a link to your favorite and I could get it to you. Might get to you before that comet comes around again(~100 million years).

The problem with most of those clicky switches is that the springs can't take the 5 amps (heat) and they loose their spring. The tabs can take the 5 amps and the center contact should take it too. If you do not intend to have it on all the time at 5 amps. the switch should last a while. Pick the darned switch up and look for a parting line all the way around the sides. There is one and I can see it in the photo. Use an exacto knife blade to pry apart the two halves, at the parting line. You will then get it see the "guts". Warning, it isn't pretty, just necessary, if you want to make new tabs for it. Otherwise, just solder the derned tin can onto it and let it be.Wink

I tried to get it apart. I could slide a small screwdriver all the through in the middle but there are two pins along the center line near the tabs that must be heat welded to keep the switch from falling apart.

I here Digikey mentioned all the time and this may be an option in the future. Thanks for the offer.

The pills finished and if I was not so slack I should've nearly finished the battery tubes (3 off them to run 1 to 4 26650 batteries). I have taken a couple of measurements but nothings happened yet. You gotta laugh, I've just taken the last mind expanding pill. You cant DHL a few overnight to me can you. Please.

Pain is good for the soul.

I can send you a Judco 10 amp switch if you want. It's a tad higher, but you can re cut that plastic insert to fit and it will use the same rubber boot.

Thanks for the offer OL you sadist. Just when you think you know someone they throw you a curve ball . Well see how we go with what I've got at the moment. Who knows I may of found a new switch we can use.