Thanks Relic! Like this How to. Looking forward to your next ones!
My suggestion is to use the How to on the subject so it’s easy to search.
Like “How to Add a Copper Braid to Springs” 
As posted:
In other words, increase the light output by giving the emitter more current.
Also, we rarely stop at just adding one 
Not sure if these would interest people:
Those are 16x 7135 boards. 8 each side, 20mm in diameter. Each boards has a solder point for LED+, LED-, PWM and GND.
I also have 12x 7135 boards. 6 each side, 20mm in diameter. The difference is that the solder points for LED+, LED-, PWM and GND are much larger 1.5mm in diameter through holes, thus allowing for more robust wire.
Both boards were designed for a project of mine but they can be used for many things obviously. Just saw this thread and thought people might like to know stuff like this is available 
- Matt
Actually, I have some desoldering braid in the mail. It’s only 1.5mm though. I thought it might come in handy to span a gap between a driver and pill. I figured I could soak it in flux, wrap it around, heat it up and add solder. Whether its a good idea or not, I don’t know…who knows.
If using the 350mA Regulator: 3 x 350mA = 1050mA, it will be 3050+1050 = 4100mA or 4.10A
If using the 380mA Regulator: 3 x 380mA = 1140mA, it will be 3050+1140 = 4190mA or 4.19A
Can you stack a 380mA regulator on a 350mA regulator, or is that bad?
They're my own design. I'm waiting until my project is finished and then I plan on offering them to anyone who wants them (plus some other things that came about as a result of the work I did). I started out intending on using the 16x7135 boards but felt for my particular project they were too cramped, so redesigned them as 12x7135 boards.
I might make a separate post about them actually. I'm probably going to give the prototype 16x boards away for free (provided the 'buyer' covers postage of course). I can't remember how many I have but it's only about 12 or so.
Perfect size, that’s what I use. Plenty of current carrying capability. It’s usually got a layer of flux on it, so you might be able to skip that step.
Yes, the two types have the same pinout, no issues with mixing them.
Mattaus, those are nice boards. Great for adding a lot of chips to a project. J)
Sending a letter to Canada is $1.65, up to 50g is $2.35… the 16x ones should fit flat in an envelope. I figure they are less than 2g each. I might be interested… thinking of where I’d use them…
Not even worth covering postage. I'll see how many I have when I get home tonight and if you want them, they're yours....though if others are interested it'd be fair to share them around I guess.
OK, sounds good. Let’s see how many we get. If all in one region, ship to one person and we can distribute from there.
Thanks. I still can’t think of a project for them yet, but I’m still thinking.
Thanks relic38 for another thread on soldering chips onto one off these drivers. Now for my sook. There are plenty of well done threads on this mod which are all good and helpful to the point I still cant do it with the pins bent down. Now you come along putting bucket loads of these things on one driver with the pins pointing straight out. Seriously thanks ___________________________________________________________________________________________for rubbing my nose in it. 
Have you tried a new pair of glasses?
Hi MRsDNF, you’re welcome, glad to help.
Soldering these little bits does take some practice, and I have had almost two decades of it. Do not be discouraged, keep at it.
Besides, $13 gets you 100 of these chips to practice with
Thanks relic! You make it look so easy! Then you get these things on front of you and they are TINY! I've not yet got around to trying it myself, but I expect to butcher a few trying!
-Garry
Thanks for the tips between TomE, OL and you I had some successs i tried stacking two chips on a 2.8a driver and one was successful getting 3.15a now. Now just to get the other chip working. Also performed 2 xml dedomes this weekend. Installed the chip added driver and a dedomed xml in a UF-T20 and got 78k and the tint is pretty sweet also. It blows any of my other XML lights away! Now just need to get reflowing down (have had some success with non sinkpads) with sinkpads and then it will be time to hopefully bust into the 100k thrower range!!!
Thanks for the write up
great write up! I had a lot more success when I bent the legs down with a pair of tweezers (a little bit away from the body though). It also worked more easily when I lightly tinned the legs on the chip I was adding too - just a light touch so it didn’t get too much heat.
One thing for those struggling with the tiny bits - if you clamp the new chip on top of the one you’re adding it to with a crocodile clip, then do the back tab as shown above, you can then just use a piece of solid core wire to bridge the pins. Only strip the insulation off the end (enough to bridge the 2 pins) and hold it with a pair of tweezers, then cut off the excess with a pair of nail clippers. It won’t be as pretty as relic’s work, but it’ll function just fine.
Great job Relic! Even if you know how to solder, you can always learn something from others around here. Thanks!
Yep. Thanks again. I think I would end up in the looney bin.
My setup is nearly identical to relic 38's and I still need glasses with that big magnifying glass. My biggest problem is trying to get in to the little tabs with everything next to them if that makes sense. No Room.