Sending a letter to Canada is $1.65, up to 50g is $2.35… the 16x ones should fit flat in an envelope. I figure they are less than 2g each. I might be interested… thinking of where I’d use them…
Not even worth covering postage. I'll see how many I have when I get home tonight and if you want them, they're yours....though if others are interested it'd be fair to share them around I guess.
OK, sounds good. Let’s see how many we get. If all in one region, ship to one person and we can distribute from there.
Thanks. I still can’t think of a project for them yet, but I’m still thinking.
Thanks relic38 for another thread on soldering chips onto one off these drivers. Now for my sook. There are plenty of well done threads on this mod which are all good and helpful to the point I still cant do it with the pins bent down. Now you come along putting bucket loads of these things on one driver with the pins pointing straight out. Seriously thanks ___________________________________________________________________________________________for rubbing my nose in it. 
Have you tried a new pair of glasses?
Hi MRsDNF, you’re welcome, glad to help.
Soldering these little bits does take some practice, and I have had almost two decades of it. Do not be discouraged, keep at it.
Besides, $13 gets you 100 of these chips to practice with 
Thanks relic! You make it look so easy! Then you get these things on front of you and they are TINY! I've not yet got around to trying it myself, but I expect to butcher a few trying!
-Garry
Thanks for the tips between TomE, OL and you I had some successs i tried stacking two chips on a 2.8a driver and one was successful getting 3.15a now. Now just to get the other chip working. Also performed 2 xml dedomes this weekend. Installed the chip added driver and a dedomed xml in a UF-T20 and got 78k and the tint is pretty sweet also. It blows any of my other XML lights away! Now just need to get reflowing down (have had some success with non sinkpads) with sinkpads and then it will be time to hopefully bust into the 100k thrower range!!!
Thanks for the write up
great write up! I had a lot more success when I bent the legs down with a pair of tweezers (a little bit away from the body though). It also worked more easily when I lightly tinned the legs on the chip I was adding too - just a light touch so it didn’t get too much heat.
One thing for those struggling with the tiny bits - if you clamp the new chip on top of the one you’re adding it to with a crocodile clip, then do the back tab as shown above, you can then just use a piece of solid core wire to bridge the pins. Only strip the insulation off the end (enough to bridge the 2 pins) and hold it with a pair of tweezers, then cut off the excess with a pair of nail clippers. It won’t be as pretty as relic’s work, but it’ll function just fine.
Great job Relic! Even if you know how to solder, you can always learn something from others around here. Thanks!
Yep. Thanks again. I think I would end up in the looney bin.
My setup is nearly identical to relic 38's and I still need glasses with that big magnifying glass. My biggest problem is trying to get in to the little tabs with everything next to them if that makes sense. No Room.
I was just sorting through a new batch of drivers I got in the mail. Those chips seem to be getting smaller since relic posted this thread.
I have a disadvantage that gives me an advantage when soldering. I’m nearsighted, and if I take off my glasses I can see things close enough to not need the magnifying glass. I use it after the job to inspect the joints.
I’m also quite nearsighted and do the same thing, who needs a magnifying glass when you can see close-up from several inches away! 
But, while I haven’t tried this yet (am about to which is how I found this thread) I still see problems like MRsDNF described…soldering iron is like getting a tire iron in a pin hole! Perhaps I need to look at getting a smaller iron tip for this type of stuff. I only recently discovered the small soldering wire that makes a huge difference, had always tried the big stuff with lead in it from days of old and always made a sloppy joint. So now that I have learned to reflow an emitter and have been making nicer solder joints I have a new driver coming in at 3.04A and wish to add a few 7135’s to bring it up to around 4-4.5A for my HD2010 with it’s new copper star and XM-L2 emitter.
Thanks for showing these pics, makes it less scary and I’m ready to attempt adding 4 of these. Where do you recommend I purchase em? The new driver is already on the way and I’d hate to wait 2 weeks for some of these tiny things!
I have experienced flickering but seemed random. Once it starts flickering I could not seem to find any pattern to the flickering. All the connections where good. This could possible explain why the flickering occurs. My flickering only seems to occur in low mode. It doesn’t happen that often but I have experienced it in a couple of mods. I always thought maybe one amc7135 got to hot so I would replace the added chips. Sometimes the flickering went away sometimes it didn’t. If it didn’t I just started all over again with a new board.
Has anyone else here experienced flickering when they bent the pins down before soldering? Relic38, have you experienced the flickering personally with bent pins?
I have not bent the pins before. My issues with flickering were mostly clicky or driver contact issues.
I can see how a weakened bond wire could produce flickering in different modes. Heat in a high mode could provide reasonable contact due to expansion. Once you switch to low, the contact could spread and weaken the contact. I suppose it could work in the opposite manner too. Stressing a tiny thing like what is inside the 7135 chip (picture a grainor two of sand) is why I avoid bending pins.
That seems to be when the flickering I noticed starts after I have used high for good amount of time. After that it may only take seconds for it to start flickering even after the light has been off for some time. The flickering did not start until the extended run in high mode. I may go back to soldering without bending the pins for awhile and see if the problem goes away.
I figured I better get prepared. I only have the tip that came with my Weller WESD51, so I ordered something a little slimmer. It may be of no use at all, but maybe it will help.
I have narrow and wide tips; I prefer the widest tip that I can fit for the job. Thin tips have a heat transfer issue and do not work well on pins and pads that conduct a lot of heat away. For that reason, I almost always use a ‘stumpy’ 1mm x 0.5mm tip (I forget the exact dimensions). I solder 20 pin surface mount chips with 0.030 pin spacing with it. I have more trouble doing the same with a smaller tip.
Does the fatter tip help pull the “blob” up to the top pin easier?
What jobs would the finer tip be best for?