I wish Maglite would be inspired into something
Tomorrow is the trip to Lowes, to look at copper fittings. The wife is concerned...
I will have to buy her another perennial for Hummingbirds, to pull this one off.
you could hide more parts in two perennials 
cant wait to see how this one turns out… and maglite inspired? hahahahahahahaha.
Wow I am excited for this!!
And this, I gotta see. 12 219’s , wow! Gonna be serious, 4 sure!
I wanted to do a quad-triple Nichia but it’d be $60 just for the stars/LED’s…
Rich
Yep, this is not going to be a “budget light”. I have everything for it, but still it’s going to be over $100 just in components and hosts. I’ve debated it over and over again. Make and sell single lights, or make a crazy 12-up. Of course, it ain’t over till it’s over. Might be a flop considering the small spaces and how to connect all the drivers, etc.
Actually I have thought of wrapping three XM-L C8 together and get something like a Fenix TK75.
You’re right, this isn’t what I imagined you were doing. Fooled me again. Lol.
It isn’t what I imagined either. I just decided this morning, as I was sitting at an empty work bench, in the garage.
The OP is Updated and also I have some questions on wiring, which I put in the First Post. I need some gurus to drop by and answer them.
No Guru here but I like method number 2.
Justin, I do believe I have 2 pieces of 1/4” aluminum plate in 6061 (I do, they’re 2 9/16x2 9/16) if you need them for this they’re yours, just holler.
OL - i like the way you think 
OL- This is a case of sharing an idea before it is formed . . but could they each be wired to turn on independently and then just control the grounds collectively via tailcap - (as with switches or pressure pads, but with one switch that turns them on from just 1 to all 4)?
Possible, but not probable. Wiring in those tiny spaces will already be a real challenge.
Yes. Having them come on 1-2-3-4 would be cool. That’s how my Eye40 works. I can’t figure out how the the beam profile always remains perfectly circular. You would think having just two or three heads on at the same time would leave a real wonky looking profile.
I vote for method 2, simply to keep your battery state in sync. With independent wiring each emitter will drop out independent of the others.
There are other reasons, but this alone would be enough to convince me.
Yep, I think it’s the best way to go too and that’s what I am looking at doing.
More photos in the OP.
Nice looking bunch of parts you’ve got going one there Justin. Don’t know how you plan on reflowing all those emitters but if I may I’ll share my own very brief experience with you. I haven’t done this but a few times, but it’s been a great success. I got some solder paste from Lowes, over in the plumbing dept, called Solder-It. It was like $4.00. I have a 1/8” thick stainless steel plate that’s 6” in diameter that I got for our induction glass stove-top for when we’re canning. Our canning pot has a recess in the bottom that won’t let the induction burner stay on so the plate fills that recess and keeps continuous contact on the glass top for excellent heat control via the pot switch. So I warmed up the plate, put solder paste on the copper stars using a needle to spread it out then laid the emitter on top of the paste. Did this with 4 stars at once. Laid em on the warmed plate then turned the heat up to medium and watched closely. The flux flowed, the solder melted, the emitters sat down on the star boards and I pushed the plate over to the cold neighboring contact surface and shut the heat down. Gave it about 10-20 seconds then moved the stars to an aluminum heat sink to cool down. The boards are pristine, no blackening of any kind and the emitters are centered very nicely. All done in one shot. Had to remove the stars from the plate pretty quick as it stays hot for a very long time.
Done this way, all 12 can be reflowed in about 5 minutes. Just a thought.
This is looking good! I like how it is going together. Home-grown TM26 or BS Terminator with 92CRI. Nice!