Review: Ultrafire 602C DIY LED Flashlight Host

where do you guys get the stuff to do it? i know a little bit of c but definitely not great at it…can you give me some links to the hardware/software that i need?

That big, extremely long thread on building a light with "perfect modes" by Tido (https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/744) has all the info, may take you hours to find it though . At work right now, can post or pm all the details. pm me if I forget.

Thanks - its a fun pretty easy light to build :bigsmile:

Thanks for sharing. I am thinking of building a small nichia 219 light right now. This might be a good choice for me.
Now the problem is to find a nichia 219 on 16mm. Anyone know where to find it? Thanks.

I just bought mine bare from illumination supply and reflowed to a star myself. I couldn’t find one either but reflowing wasn’t bad (worked fine on my first try). just take your time and make sure everything lines up and check the data sheet to identify the anode and cathode

I practiced some reflowing on some old leds and on some that i might not ever use just incase i messed one up. Its pretty easy after a little practice. The only one i have messed up was on a green xpe that I was removing off of a 10mm board and the tweezers slipped and instant dedome and the wires ripped out too.

TomE got my clip in the mail yesterday and I am ordering the programmer from FT today with some other stuff I have been wanting. I kind of like that 2 group 2.8a driver they have also. Maybe with your guidance I can figure out how to write a program similar to it but better.

Thanks for the reply. I ordered a 10mm nichia 219 from illumination supply. Guess this will work too.

Have used them on the 10mm board before but they are a little bit of a pain since the board is so small and the contacts on the board are so close to the led but it can be done. I have one on a 10mm board in a UniqueFire F20 and it worked ok. This was before i ever tried to reflowing.

I'm 100% with reflows, nothing like de-doming . For the programmer clip, I had to replace the crimp-on connector because pins 1 and 2 were not wired (8 pin cable to a 10 pin connector) - I found i impossible to re-do without breaking it. For the replacement 10 pin connector (don't know there official name), cut off the existing one, crimped on the new one. You got 8 wires, and want pins 1-7 wired 1 to 1, then pin 8 of the cable wired to pin 9 of the connector -- this is all on the USB adapter end. The other end is easy - all the wires are simply push-on's, so you can juggle them around easily.

When I built this light I only had a XML T6 1A and its not a very good tint for use at work (theres a lot of flat metal and aluminum on the equipment I work on). Tonight while just messing around at the workbench/dining room table there was a XML U3 1C just begging me to put it in, so I did. It is so much better then that 1A! The 1A was so grey/blueish and just amde everything look dull. Now with the 1C there is more yellow and white, didnt think there would be that much difference. At work tomorrow will tell if it is good enough though. It also seems there was descent increase in brightnesss.

TomE - ordered my programmer and it should be shipping out tonight.

I got mine this week and decided to build it up. I went with a Nichia 219 for the tint and a 1.14A 3x7135 driver. I will be changing the driver as it always starts in high; not good for EDC. I’d prefer always start in low.
Tint is amazing on these Nichia 219 emitters! I compared it to an XM-L T6 3C and the Nichia is much nicer. The only Cree LED I’ve seen give a similar tint is the MT-G2.
I also fixed the switch boot so the light will tailstand.
Next I will add a clip and get a real AK-47A driver in there.
I noticed one minor issue with mine. The reflector is not coated very well. On one side of the OP reflector I can see that it didn’t completely coat the aluminum. I am not concerned as I cannot see any beam issues, and I do not care too much about any minor loss this may create. I’m simply noting it in case other may care. It’s quite easy to see if you look at the reflector while the light is on. Keep your eyes out of the beam and spill anf you’ll see white ‘spots’ on the reflector that look almost like dust that will not wipe off (I didn’t try too hard though, usually cleaning a reflector makes things worse).

I just built a second one of these up for a friend: 4x 7135 101AK driver set to 3-modes with U2-bin XM-L emitter.

But!

When I ordered the parts, I also ordered a pack of these:

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10001923/1182004-insulation-gaskets-for-cree-xm-l-t6-led-emitters-1

...which worked perfectly and assisted in centering the stock reflector. I didn't have to dig into my box-o-parts this time to get a properly-fitting reflector.

I almost ordered some of those when I ordered this light. Guess will email FT and see if they can put it on my order as they have not shipped it yet.

Thanks for the info!

Got my parts today:

There’s a black paper insulator but like keltex, I use the same insulator gasket he posted.
I also need to solder the driver as it is also loose on the pill.
Can’t remove the tail cap. Might need a vise but no reason for me to force it right now.
Light blue switch cap and not protruding so no problem on tail stand.
Easy lego! Nice pocket torch.

Blue cap? Mine's a GITD green! Also, on this light, the body/battery tube is the tailcap; the switch assembly threads into the bottom of that tube...

I looked again this morning and you are right Keltex. It’s actually light green
mine. And thanks for confirming to me that the body/battery tube is the tailcap!

As planned, I built myself the first nichia 219 light with this host, a nichia 219 on 10mm star, and a 5*7135 driver from fasttech. It works great. I set it to 3 modes. the low is very usable being around 15-20 lm. The high is around 200lm (compared to trustworthy fenix LD20). The clickie feels good. The size of the host feels just right in hand. I prefer clickies much better than twisties, even for EDC.

The only complaint is that the isolation disk came with the host has a hole that is too big. It is about the same size as the opening of the reflector.

I just ordered one last night. I’m curious, does the reflector work well with a Nichia? I have a few 219s as well as a few CW XM-Ls, I’m leaning toward a Nichia at 1.5a or so.

I bet they will work good but I personally dont know. That sounds like a nice combo let us know how it works out!

I still like the heck out of mine!

I did one with a Nichia, works great. Nice beam.