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You sure they’ll fit? Cell must be less than 68mm…mine aren’t


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Maybe yours are button top? ZL shows a flat top battery in their pic of the SC600MKII so that’s what I ordered :slight_smile:

EDIT: Found out. Mine are unprotected flattop = 65.0 mm official spec length: http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10001980/1141100-panasonic-ncr18650b-rechargeable-3400mah-37v-18650
Protected button top = 69.4 mm: http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10001980/1141104-panasonic-ncr18650b-protected-rechargeable-3400mah

-Jamie M.

The reason I thought they wouldn’t fit is because I have protected Panny 3400’s, and they are long arse, button top cells.
I’m not surprised yours are 65mm if they are flat top unprotecteds.

Woot! So happy mine will fit and work! YAY!

You know you can cut the protection off the top of your cells so they fit right? My friend had to do that with his so they’d work in his sc600.

And OMG love these panasonic 3400’s, the are absolute MONSTERS!

-Jamie M.

I have 4 in my black SRK, it’s pretty unreal

This has me concerned about keeppower batteries too... they aren't quite as long as the protected panasonics, but still very long.

Hopefully the folks at zebralight took note of battery sizes and the final version will be able to cope. If not I guess I'll have to order a couple more 3400mAh flattops.

http://www.doingoutdoor.com/2pcs-keeppower-18650-rechargeable-battery-2600mah-p-88.html

Official spec says 68.64mm for 2600mah, 69.08mm for 3100mah, 69.02 for 3400mah, none are likely to work!!!

-Jamie M.

Well that's a bummer. I really really hope there is some more tolerance in this light... the sc52 handles the longer 14500 keeppower batteries just fine, a tad tight, but ok.

All of my protected batteries are either the panasonics, or keeppower 3400mAh... really would be a shame not to be able to use them. Maybe an extra GTID oring would work as a spacer.

You can’t use a spacer because of the tailcap design. The threads are anodized and the only part that makes electrical contact with the tailcap is the non anodized top of the body tube, makes contact with a copper ring inside the tail cap. It has to be screwed fully down or the light won’t work. You can disable the SC600MKII by unscrewing the tailcap only a 1/4 turn, so you can see how tight it has to be to make electrical contact.

I heard from an unofficial source that the recommended battery length for the SC600MKII is actually 67mm. 68mm is the absolute biggest battery you can fit allowing the tailcap to make proper electrical contact and without putting so much pressure to damage the electronics in the flashlight :frowning: If you had the 2600’s you might just squeak it in, but I wouldn’t even attempt the 3100’s or 3400’s for fear of damaging the light :frowning:

-Jamie M.

When I ordered my SC52 I owned no 14500’s, so I got 2 ZL ones (rewrapped Sanyo’s?)

Now with the SC600 it seems I am going to have to buy some other type of small, protected battery for it, recommendations? Will ANY protected cells fit at 67mm or less?!

The zebralights are supposed to cut off at 2.7v, so I don't think using unprotected batteries would be an issue.

I'll definitely be careful trying out different batteries, not to damage anything inside.

i would definitely run my sc600 mk2 with unprotecteds :slight_smile: no wasted energy from the PCB

Sounds like the unprotected NCRB’s in either button or flat is the best ammo for this torch

yep or simply rip out the PCB and metal strip :slight_smile:

Do you have an pictures or instructions on doing this? I think people that get the MKII and have protected batteries will want to do this.

-Jamie M.

x2

I wouldn’t do that tbh, you pay more for the PCM in the first place so it seems a bit of a waste to rip it off. You will also probably be left with sharp solder tabs on the top and bottom of the cell…

As a last resort then I could see why you might want to do it but I would recommend just ordering a couple of unprotected cells from fasttech instead and using the protected ones in other lights.

I don't understand. Why would anyone "destroy" a good protected cell instead of buying an unprotected one?

Hi,

I agree with the above, but I just wanted to mention that one several batteries I had before, the wrappings got torn (these were 10440s in a different light), and I eventually ended up just removing the “logo” wrapping layer, and when I did, the strip going down the side, connecting the + to the PCB on the - end wasn’t soldered at all, but only that outer wrapping was holding the strip to the + side and the PCB. I don’t know how common that is, but wanted to mention it, because with that “design”, there’s no solder tabs involved. Basically it was just remove the outer wrapping and the metal strip fell off. There was also a much thicker wrapping UNDERNEATH all of that, which left me with a “blue” unprotected battery. YMMV.

Jim

I’ve removed the protection on a few cells, simply because I had to in order to fit them in my light. Had I known they would not fit, I would have ordered unprotected.
On one other occasion, the only known good source was protected 26650, which I didn’t need. I ordered them and removed the protection so it would fit the light.
If you have the option to order unprotected when you need it, go for that. It’s easier, cheaper, and safer (the removal process includes a risk of shorting out the cell).
I have contemplated posting a How-To on protection PCB removal (I have the images already), but didn’t bother as I figured there just wasn’t anyone that wanted to do this.