You can’t use a spacer because of the tailcap design. The threads are anodized and the only part that makes electrical contact with the tailcap is the non anodized top of the body tube, makes contact with a copper ring inside the tail cap. It has to be screwed fully down or the light won’t work. You can disable the SC600MKII by unscrewing the tailcap only a 1/4 turn, so you can see how tight it has to be to make electrical contact.
I heard from an unofficial source that the recommended battery length for the SC600MKII is actually 67mm. 68mm is the absolute biggest battery you can fit allowing the tailcap to make proper electrical contact and without putting so much pressure to damage the electronics in the flashlight If you had the 2600’s you might just squeak it in, but I wouldn’t even attempt the 3100’s or 3400’s for fear of damaging the light
When I ordered my SC52 I owned no 14500’s, so I got 2 ZL ones (rewrapped Sanyo’s?)
Now with the SC600 it seems I am going to have to buy some other type of small, protected battery for it, recommendations? Will ANY protected cells fit at 67mm or less?!
I wouldn’t do that tbh, you pay more for the PCM in the first place so it seems a bit of a waste to rip it off. You will also probably be left with sharp solder tabs on the top and bottom of the cell…
As a last resort then I could see why you might want to do it but I would recommend just ordering a couple of unprotected cells from fasttech instead and using the protected ones in other lights.
I agree with the above, but I just wanted to mention that one several batteries I had before, the wrappings got torn (these were 10440s in a different light), and I eventually ended up just removing the “logo” wrapping layer, and when I did, the strip going down the side, connecting the + to the PCB on the - end wasn’t soldered at all, but only that outer wrapping was holding the strip to the + side and the PCB. I don’t know how common that is, but wanted to mention it, because with that “design”, there’s no solder tabs involved. Basically it was just remove the outer wrapping and the metal strip fell off. There was also a much thicker wrapping UNDERNEATH all of that, which left me with a “blue” unprotected battery. YMMV.
I’ve removed the protection on a few cells, simply because I had to in order to fit them in my light. Had I known they would not fit, I would have ordered unprotected.
On one other occasion, the only known good source was protected 26650, which I didn’t need. I ordered them and removed the protection so it would fit the light.
If you have the option to order unprotected when you need it, go for that. It’s easier, cheaper, and safer (the removal process includes a risk of shorting out the cell).
I have contemplated posting a How-To on protection PCB removal (I have the images already), but didn’t bother as I figured there just wasn’t anyone that wanted to do this.
why spend more buying an unprotected when you could simply “liberate” the cell
protection PCB wastes a lot of energy, just compare the graphs from HKJ so for all my single cell lights i use unprotected. and for zebras it’s even better coz they have built in overdischarge protection
We now have Pangea Design's Pickpocket in stock! This titanium bottle opener can be used as a clip or keychain accessory. It also comes in a hex design for 1/4" wrenches or driver bits.
We've emailed ZebraLight asking for an update and are waiting. The only reason we put up the pre-order is because we heard reports that other dealers were receiving their stock and estimated ours would be shipping/arriving this week. Keep in mind everyone is free to cancel their pre-order for a full refund.
Which light are you talking about? The SC52 or the SC600, or both?
If it is one or both, I can relate… When I started (not that long ago), I kept hearing about Zebralight lights, but (1) they were expensive and (2) I thought that they looked kind of weird.
Then, eventually, I got an SC52 (from IS) and when I tried it, I went “WHOA!”. It was so darn bright(!), plus, it was A LOT smaller than a lot of the pictures that I’d seen.
So, now, even though I still think the SC52 looks somewhat odd, I love it because of (1) it’s brightness, (2) it’s size, and (3) the UI.
So, if you are talking about the Zebralight SC52, at least, I have to say that you won’t “get it” just reading about it, and looking at pictures… you really have to get it in your hand and see for yourself.
If you had the 2600’s you might just squeak it in, but I wouldn’t even attempt the 3100’s or 3400’s for fear of damaging the light 
no wasted energy from the PCB
