LOL! :bigsmile:
A tube of Nyogel 760g is absolutely worth it (and if you don’t want the big tube, ArmyTec repackages it in smaller tubes - still plenty). I’ve used two kinds of silicone (divers o-ring lube and thinner watch gasket lube), lithium grease, synthetic bike grease, etc. For twisty flashlights the feel of the Nyogel beats them all. Damping is just right for these small lights, and even my relatively rough L10 is now smooth as silk.
Thanks for the tip! Tried rotating the spring with hemostats and now my light actually stays on without flickering. Same beam here, a little cooler (blueish) than my T10.
I had the same problem with mine. I tried cleaning the threads, tightened the pill, checked the wires to the led and nothing... until I rotated the spring. So far it appears to be working without flickering.
I wonder what happened to the quality? I have bought 15+ Thrunites (a lot of Ti's to give away) and only one of them, a Neutron 2A, had a minor problem. It was visibly less bright than my other Neutron 2A, but I got a partial refund. I think I'll take a break from buying any more Thrunites due to these contact issues and the cool (blueish) tint.
I got my BLF Saber today, the threads were a little gritty but no problems with it. The threads are also a lot smoother than my original T10 as I cant twist it with 1 hand but the BLF Saber is easy to twist.
The tint is pure white compared to my blueish/purplish T10 tint, also it didn’t have any contact problems at all.
I’m happy with it, I wish I had bought more for that price.
I got mine yesterday too, its quality is nice. The threads were lubed and like the others mentioned a bit sandy and after turning it (with the sand) on and off 30 times it stopped working…
I removed the dirtylube with a tissue, below the non threadened part and from the top contact. It was black like always and after this it lights up again and is much smoother.
Cheap nimh don’t fit, my nitecore 14500 with an extra layer tape won’t fit too.
and the groove between the two parts could be smaller.
It is bright for such a little cutie, I will measure tailcap current when I have found my trustfire 14500…
I picked mine up from the post office this morning. After hearing bad things, I was prepared for the worst. But I’m quite happy with mine.
Positive: Threads are very smooth, no flickering problems at all. Modes are great, the memory sets after the light is off for about 2 seconds, which is about perfect. Quality seems first rate. It’s also surprisingly bright on AA NiMH. No battery rattle. Modes are L-M-H, no strobes. LED is definitely an XP-G2 and well-centered, though the opening in the reflector is pretty big (about the size of the whole LED; shown below on right vs. V10A on left).
Cons: The tint is definitely cool white. It makes my V10A look neutral by comparison. Pretty big hotspot (same size as my iTP A3 EOS with XP-E), so I don’t think it will be much of a thrower, but it’s tiny, so it’s not supposed to be. There is also some play in the threads like the original iTP A3 EOS where if you twist it to off, you can press the head and it will come on. That’s not a big deal, but you will want to give it a good size twist to off if you are putting this in your pocket. Lastly, I’m not so sure about the lens coating. The coating doesn’t seem as effective as the V10A, but I will need to compare against some uncoated lenses.
Neutral: Says ThruNite T10 on one side and Saber 1A on the other, which is kind of funny. BLF on the head. Tailstanding is a little wobbly due to the thin keyring knockout, but it does stand.
I’m sorry others are having some issues, but hopefully the rough threads can be worked and the contact problems can be solved.
The box says that ThruNite lights are designed in the USA. Does anyone know if there is any truth to that?
I just did a quick comparison of my T10 and Saber 1A. The Saber box says “designed in USA,” the T10 box doesn’t. There are also different company addresses on the boxes (different cities), and looking closely at the heads they don’t quite match (knurling, groove width). My guess is that Thrunite went to a different supplier for the new light, and QC wasn’t as good as the original place.
I received my Saber 1A today. I had been looking forward to it, but instead of joy it was disappointment.
The light flickers on all modes, and sometimes does not turn on. Obviously defective.
Now what??
I should add that I am not technically competent here and am not faintly interested in doing any repair.
Jerry
I picked up mine thus morning and it also seems fine. One hand operation, smooth threads with nice positive feel but not gritty, no flickering, and a very low firefly. Works with both AA and 14500 efest imr and has a nice smooth beam. I’ll have to do a side by side with an RBD Solitaire.
Can anyone tell me how to contact Craig or Thrunite for either a refund or replacement?
Thanks,
Jerry
You should make some attempt at getting the light to work. The fixes people are doing are pretty simple.
As much as I was also disappointed with the lack of checking/QC out of the factory, I agree with brted that you should at least try a minimal contact cleaning. With tweezers or small needle nose pliers you can pull the spring out of the tube and clean its top and bottom contact points with a q-tip moistened with alcohol, then with the same q-tip clean the bottom tube contact, the inner and outer contacts on the bottom of the board plus the top rim of the tube. Put the spring back in and see if the flicker is gone. This can all be done in a couple of minutes.
If you are still having problems contact Thrunite at sabrina@thrunite.com. Good luck.
Thanks, Tweaks. It worked, and that is a lot better than the troubles of sending it back, etc. I don’t normally work on lights, and so did not know what to do. I admit I am not used to repairing new items I purchase, but this was worth it.
Thanks again for your and brted’s help. It saved me some trouble.
Jerry
That’s great you got it working. Definitely better than the hassle of customer service. Congratulations!
Just got mine, popped a battery in and Bob’s your uncle - not an issue everything looks good.
Thanks ezarc for organizing this buy.
Okay so I have been really trying to look at the positive things here…I got in 2 defective lights and ‘fixed’ them, but am already having more problems with one of them. The main one I have been using has lost it’s moonlight mode. I try to turn it on moonlight mode and it won’t even light up. eventually if I keep it in the on position it might flicker (tiny fractions of a lumen, hard to even see). the medium and high modes work fine, so it’s not contact issues. and I have only been using eneloops in it (batteries are brand new. have tried other fresh batteries and get the same thing). no 14500s at all, no overheating, etc…and the moonlight is what really sold the lights for me. I guess I am going to try and get a refund. even if the second one is working right now i wouldn’t trust it to last more than a few days. has anyone else had issues like this?
Sorry to hear about your troubles. I think it may still be a connection issue. The current on ml mode is so small that any additional resistance from a poor connection and the led wont light at all even though the higher current modes still work. The ground ring might need a small addition of solder or a q-tip with alchohol but I could be wrong. That seemed to be a common fix for the BLF Mini 01. Qc seems to be a bugbear for thrunite.
There does seem to be some serious quality control issues with Thrunite. Out of four lights I’ve bought from them for myself (aside from the “bundle” of Tis for Christmas gifts) I’ve had issues with three. (The T30S has run fine, knock on wood… 
)
the ground ring…so i need to take the driver out? I’m out of town for the rest of the weekend but I’ll look at it tomorrow night or Monday. I would really like these if they worked right. I just completely stripped both and cleaned/lubed them so I don’t see how it could be the threads or anything. if it is…then even having to strip it down and clean it every few days to keep it working isn’t worth it. especially times like now when I’m out of town for a week and don’t have my stuff with me to work on it. what a pain. if I can add a little solder to it or something for a quick fix it might not be so bad. thanks for the help though the current thing makes sense
Sorry for the poor quality but this is how mine looks and it works fine. That bit of solder on the right is where the - contact is made and needs to be clean and smooth. Can you take a pic of yours? My advise might not be worth squat if the issue is with the component side. One of my BLF minis had a shaving of aluminum from machining on the component side that caused inconsistent operation until I pulled the driver and it came out.
It looks from the two holes that the driver threads in so has anyone removed the driver yet? I would do that as a last option.