When are these going to be available? I NEED them!!! :bigsmile:
Ya I new that, (WTH was I thinking) the gold must have been affecting my brain. 
Now that I have recovered, I noticed in the pics that the sides of the raised led pad seems to have a slight angle towards the inside. Meaning if it had been milled they would have had to have used a tapered end mill. It would have been very small and custom made. Stamping on the other hand, would have benefited from the slight inward angle on the center pad. It would have helped release the Cooper board once the stamp is pulled away. Molding the board would have also benefited from the center being angled for the same reason.
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PilotPTK, does the sides of the led pad appear to be leaning in slightly or or is the gold playing tricks on me again? :bigsmile:
Yes, they are definitely tapered/drafted with a small radius where the slug meets the base. This is one of the reasons I believe the whole thing is stamped.
PPtk
There is no doubt that these are pressed and not milled. Milling would be hugely expensive and wasteful. Stamping would ridiculously easy, 1000 times more efficient, and allow large production rates.
At $1.84 ea I will be trying these out. Guess I’ll be just one more compiling an order with other parts when these become available. Now if I could just find someone to make me a copper pill for my HD2010!
ventureofblood was considering it. Maybe we should start a HD2010 copper pill interest thread to give him an idea of how many people would buy one.
You might want to talk with him to see if he would like to make those. He mentioned that he might do something like that after he finishes up the Uf-T20 copper pills.
Now available for sale
Ordered!!
thanks for heads up, put in order for some to test.
I ordered a set to try too. Thanks for the heads up Bort. 
Pilot,
Thanks for posting about these. I would have been skeptical of the quality had you not given your stamp of approval ( which IMHO carries a lot of weight when it comes to any of this kind of stuff ).
Hank really has an advantage over many of the other China dealers if you ask me. First off his English is a lot better. Second he truly understands the market. He knows how to get the QUALITY up and still keep the prices down.
I hear you guys:)
Right now there has been a slight delay of progress on this because the half nuts on my lathe wore out again ( you need these for cutting threads) I will have to either order another from china or find a way to repair the old ones.
Meanwhile I may look around to see if I can pick up some of the lights people are asking about, that way I can get the pill in hand and decide if a run of copper slugs is doable.
I probly wont start a feeler thread for them until I at least get the lights in hand.
I do love your enthusiasm.
Again, said it before, I'm in for at least two HD 2010 copper pills! Understand though, VOB, take good care of that lathe, we don't want to burn it out any further!
not sure if this helps, but I saw a very neat thread (ba bam!) on homeshopmachinist a while back about making your own half nuts. I can’t remember the exact process, but the gist of it was to use some delrin tube cut in half length ways so it fitted within the metal shell (?), then clamped around the lead screw (or equivalent rod with same pitch and diameter) which was then heated with a blow torch while clamping down on the delrin. By the looks of it, the delrin softened enough to form into the threads. It’s a bit hazy I’m afraid, which isn’t helped by the fact that my lathe doesn’t have a lead screw (or half nuts!) so it’s a somewhat magical dreamed about lathe part that I don’t understand.
Either way, it sounded pretty neat 
if I put solder in the hole of the sinkpad will it be better than heat conductive paste??
does the 2 degrees higher temp make the sinkpads a lot worse?
You won’t notice any difference in real world application georgek.
It’s theoretical maximum temperature at some spot that has 2°C difference in the theoretical model.
Sure flat is better but it’s not like going from Aluminum to Copper :bigsmile:
The same can be said about having and XM-L at 2.6A and at 3A, no real difference in real world application...
only about 100 lumens, shining it on your wall won’t matter much, but outside 100 more lumens makes slightly more difference
I don't shine lights on the wall... I only care about outside but that is not the point.
i agree with your original point that the sinkpad vs noctigon won’t have much real world difference, but your 100 lumen less example i disagree with