I may be remembering wrong, but I’m confident mine have 3 sense resistor pads. I think they are labeled R5, R6, & R7. I can check tonight when I get home.
EDIT: Another potential difference. I have two sets of positive and negative wires (one connected to each side of the vertical board) feeding the MT-G2. Did that because of long wire length and tightness of gap below the reflector. I don’t recall the gauge, but it’s thick by flashlight standards. I also have my battery feeds directly soldered to the driver and then going directly to the battery terminals (no springs or other connections in between). My on/off switch is between the 2 batteries (Judco 10amp. Also directly connected.) In summary, there should be very low resistance and low chance of any weak connections that can be caused by threads, etc.
Does yours work with 2 li-ion cells in series? I got mine to replace the driver which eventually blew on my SR3800 but it’s just moonlight modes at 8.4v and I don’t have any 3 series hosts to put it in.
I just logged on to Manafont and double checked what I ordered. It is the same driver you have linked above. I’ll check tonight and if different I’ll post a macro of it.
I just noticed another difference. Mine has some type of epoxy between the to boards. It covers some of the components too. I would probably destroy the driver trying to separate the boards.
The one I have in a light looks like the one pictured, and I bought that over a year ago. I got my other two from another member a couple months ago, and I think he bought them before I bought my first one.
Oh dear, I’m probably too late to contact manafont about it now too.
I had thought about using it in the DRY but even after seperating the boards and wiring connections so they aren’t at a right angle anymore it still didn’t fit.
Ok. They must have changed the driver design, but not updated the website pictures or they sent me something different. 3 sensor resistor pads, R2, R5, R7 with R200, R250, and R100, respectively. Here is a picture:
Is the R2 you’re refering to on the same side of the same board? I ask because I doubt the driver boards are coordinated that well with each other. I wouldn’t be surprised if you saw the same addresses (i.e. R2) on both sides of the same board.
My board has the three same resistors in the same places as your ImA4Wheelr except they are all the same physical size on mine. Also there is a R2 on the bottom contact board that has 103 on it. I just got in .12 ohm resistors. Where should I add them to bump power?
Tried to get a little more info off the driver this morning.
The adhesive residue is fairly easy to remove with a pick. It is flexible, peels and crumbles. This is very good news from a modding stand point.
The round board is labeled, “TR-0159C2”.
The MCU has 10 legs and appears to have this code on it, “TR35”. Difficult to read due to adhesive residue. I’ll take another look at it tonight. It would be nice to identify this chip to see if we can program it.
I tried last night and again this morning. I can’t make out the labeling on the mcu. I would be nice to be able to reprogram this driver since it is low cost and easy to modify it’s power output.