The Panasonic cells I use are CGR18650CH.
I have seen 5A+ in direct drive XML.
Hi,
Their page says:
So maybe they specifically mean only XM-L and not XM-L2?
You might open a ticket on their site and ask about XM-L2. That “geek” guy seems pretty knowledgeable and responsive.
I got these drivers in 4A and 5A on order. You "must" use low resistance batteries on a XM-L2 single cell build w straight amp regulated drivers with driving high current (over 3A). I've gotten 4.2A measured on 4.2A Nanjg drivers. Also, you have to use heavy gauge wire (~22) and check your springs. The first 15 mins or so of use on a battery is excellent output and amps. The KK ICR's and MNKE IMR's do pretty well.
RaceR86's results above is a good sign for the 4A driver - 3.75A measured on a fresh Pana PD. These type of drivers never seem to deliver the full amps as spec'ed, same for the drivers from IOS. I'd expect 3.7A from a 4A driver, and 4.5A from a 5A driver, but 2.6A is bad, really bad. Not sure what a high drain Pana battery is exactly, plus you need heavy gauge leads on your DMM - you are getting into ranges where all resistance is the enemy, you need slim to none resistance, everywhere.
I found the 4a version from ios gives 3.7a on an xm-l and 3.3a on xm-l2 using a king kong (or a Samsung unprotected/sanyo protected), 2.6a to me suggests either the meter leads aren’t so good or……they sent you the 3a version by mistake (its an easy mistake to make tbf).
Is the difference between 3, 4 or 5 amps noticeable?
I mean, can we distinguish the version from a picture?
no, unfortunately not, I think the sense resistors are different but I dont know the differences myself sorry.
Just to show how sensitive the 4A driver is to give out high output. Some more tail cap readings to XM-L on copper. Stock wires on the driver (26 AWG to LED from driver, same size or slightly smaller between the boards).
Protected Panasonic 18650PD 3,75A (freshly charged, from the charger)
Protected Panasonic 18650PD 3,6A (freshly charged, but with several hours to rest)
Protected Panasonic 18650B 3,4A (freshly charged, a few hours to rest)
Protected Sanyo UR18650F 2,6A (freshly charged, a few hours to rest)
The difference is about as expected considering that the PD generally is better, and that the 18650B has less voltage sag in the beginning compared to the Sanyo battery. Cant comment yet on the PD, but as said, the others batteries will go below 3A fairly soon (Sanyo already are from the start). I have both green (FT) and black (IOS) 18650B, and they were pretty much equal.
I assume mine and Gords driver are the same. Our high measurements are pretty equal. (Same dealer, same specs, too)
Larger batteries with low resistance and minimal voltage sag probably have a decent advantage when they are used for some time. Or batteries in parallel.
Gords, how does your behave with the larger batteries when voltage are lower? More like 50-70%?
Due to the output being so low, and not well regulated, that might be the reason IOS seem to have stopped to sell them? They started to disappear slowly not too long ago, now I cant find them anymore…
If you have a boost driver on 1 cell, do you think that cell can really deliver 5A except for a very short time? The driver would have to pull more than 5A to feed the set output voltage and then take some more current for that regulation, you end up pulling more than 5A, cell struggles since it it will rapidly deplete and voltage sag would be great, resistance becomes great since it's such a high current on such small voltage.
I have the 5A version and the only way I can get 4.7A on an XM-L2 is with a power supply set to 4.2V. I used 20ga emitter wire and braid on the driver and tail spring. I get about 4.2A on a TF flame 26650. Using 20 ga wire between the boards will probably help.
For me, I’m going back to the East-092 DD driver. I get 5.5A from that J)
What do you get at a more realistic voltage like 4.00 or 3.80V? On the power supply of course.
Dunno, but it drops down as soon as I start to drop the voltage.
Where can I get thick wire? FT has only 30 and 28 AGW
I did a 14*7135 driver and got 4900mA with the DMM in series with the standard Nanjg leads with a UR18650GM at 4.15V (offload measured). I think that driver is simply bad, too much drop in the circuit.
Fixed, thanks.
Yes - I got this IOS wire on order. Mostly I've been using this, recommended by Old Lumens:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/25-feet-22-AWG-Silver-Teflon-Wire-Red-19-Strands-/230887453205?
Available in red and black. I've found sources on eBay and Amazon.
Bought this, been using it lately: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008XNMITW/ref=pe_175190_21431760_M3T1_ST1_dp_1
Used this on the BTU Shocker: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0077E9KCQ/ref=pe_175190_21431760_M3T1_ST1_dp_1
The silicone has advantages for flexibility, but been finding this stuff harder to solder - dunno if it's this particular wire or what, that's why I got the IOS wire on order. The teflon coated, silver tinned solders up real well, but turns stiff, sometimes good, sometimes a problem.
I received my I-O 22ga wire the other day (‘red’ and black). Looks fine, nice and flexible. The red is more of a pinkish-orange, but who cares. I already had 20ga, but that is sometimes too thick for certain lights (HD2010 reflector, I’m looking at you).
I’m also disappointed with this driver - was hoping for a real eye-popper….
I’m getting 2.9a out of this KD 3.04a driver, but with the same kit, am only getting 2.8a out of a supposed 5a driver…
I picked up one of the V10+ 5A ramping drivers on a whim, it's pretty disappointing. I haven't put it in a light yet (and probably never will), only bench tested it so far. Current was low with only one good cell so I thwacked it with four Samsung INRs in parallel... current went up just a little but still nowhere near the rating. I can't get it to feed more than 3.8A to the LED no matter what I feed it with. And the UI is about the clunkiest thing ever.
Also, it won't fit into a P60 pill unless you solder on an extender ring first, though most uses will be in something beefier than a P60 (but then, it doesn't really need to be 17mm).
Interesting piece on paper, in person not so much.