So using sand paper can remove those leftover epoxy, hmm.
Kaidomain does offer XM-L2 U2 with $9.49 free shipping, but it is on aluminum star, not Sinkpad. Anyway I still don’t know where to get the Sinkpad, probably I will just go with the easy route - U3 1C on aluminium will do, maybe I’m just too lazy to source those better parts :bigsmile:
Easy to remove LED's from alum starts, then reflow onto SinkPAD's - done this many times.
fyi.. straight U3/aluminum isn't gonna be all that much of an improvement. I wouldn't do it for the work and risk factor, but it will be some good experience, and if you have the time of course.
Actually I have to do this because my DRY is broken badly, so instead of calling this as a “mod” it is more likely a repair, lol.
Reflow is something like heating the heat sink and let the thermal paste to melt on it? Anyway I do not own any Sinkpad…
Oh, ok. Reflow is soldering the LED onto the star board, but using solder paste, and applying heat to melt the solder paste, then the emitter gently sits down in the proper position with a bonded (soldered) connection on the pads of the star board.
So a DRY is a different 3 LED light? I know the DRY driver is an option for a Shocker. Ok - think I understand now, yes, for a repair U3's maybe a good cost effective option then.
My method for removing a star on a heat sink.
Use a strong pair of short needle-nose pliers.
Insert the tips into the u-grooves of the star.
Twist while pushing down just enough to hold the tips in the groves. After a few seconds, the star will let go.
Usually the star is undamaged and can be reused.
Sometimes you may get a small scratch on the pill. Since I sand/lap the pill anyway, this isn’t a big deal for me.
Here are a couple shots of my refector. Best I can do with my iphone. There are a few little ripples, especially close to the LEDS, but obviously not enough to hurt my throw much.
.
This light is equal to 3 super charged and focused C8's! I love it! The reflectors are a little bigger and deeper than the TK75. Also, if you compare the two, you'll see the TK75's reflectors are missing more of the sides in the middle, where the Shocker's comes towards the top more, more of a complete reflector per LED. Main reason is of course because the diameter of the head is bigger, so the TK75 does great for what it has to work with.
Think if I had a Shocker, I'd be really tempted to take a drill and dremel to the reflector to eliminate some weight, however, it's a great heat sink, and I'm thinking if the center screw was bronze/brass (or alum or copper), it would xfer some heat there. Actually better would be to build up copper or aluminum in the dead center of the pill top, around the screw so you make contact to the reflector - if you get get some serious amount of metal to metal contact to that reflector, you can take advantage of that hugh heat sink.
GRRrrr
and good job on the mod. i added U3 with similar gains
Whats the difference in lumens per watt between XM-L2 T6 v XM-L2 U2 ? Tried to find it myself but can’t find anything on that.
CNQ had the T6 variant but not U2.
Did you do any mods to the battery carrier? What batts? Well U3's on SinkPAD's do pretty good, usually little less than XM-L2 U2's from what I've seen/done. I'm regretting not modding the battery carrier..... HHmm, next time. Like Pana PD's in there but they are a little loose, so used magnets, gains maybe 150-200 lumens.
yes . i found the springs had rather weak tension in them so replaced all springs with thick gold plated springs i had purchased a while back from Ric .I use 3 KEEP-POWER 3400 battries. to make them all nice and tight i used a 0.35mm thick heat shrink on them .the texture of the heat shrink is "rubbery" so it seats all 3 battries nicely with zero rattle . The other problem the battrey carrier most likely has is the switch!! I suspect thats what reponsible for the fluctuation in output. i opened the switch up and from what saw this switch is struggling to carry the massive amps this light pulls .
I like it!! Nice job Shaq!
mod that switch! 
good job shaq!
nahh il just install this switch :)
good lord!
a question... how much volts should the battery carrier read with fully charged battries?
I got 12.55v with the carrier stand-alone - that will drop in the light though, under load.
HHmm, - maybe that was a TN31??? Crap, I'm not sure now, but both lights are series setups I believe.
hmm .i get 12.6 . so this means all 3 battries are in series??? thats not a good thing is it.
Yep! In series you add the voltage, in parallel, amps is additive.
well thats not good . shouldnt it be in parallel? such high amps and its in series