Hey guys, fellow flashaholic here. Been checking out the forum for a while and finally joined. I have what seems to be a seldom discussed topic… throwers : )
There seems to be a large gap from the HD2010 to the more expensive BTU Shocker/Fenix TK’s. That’s a dollar gap from $30-$150. It’s hard to believe there isn’t an exceptional thrower in the $40-$70 range. I’ve read lots of threads and can’t seem to find much (stl-v6 seems to be too close to the 2010). I have a tmart direct drive 2010 pulling 4.7 amps. It’s a great light but I need more.
Please give me your top 2 recommendations for throw dominant lights with some minor spill for practicality. 18650 or 26650 batteries only please. I’m very curious to what the group thinks.
Actually there's been a lot of threads dedicated to throwers - guys repeatedly ask for the "best budget thrower", and a lot of posts.
Mod'ed HD2010's do in the 90's for kcd, 600 meters or so (just built one today!). A good stock HD2010 does in the 50's - that ain't too awful... There's a bunch of under-driven low budget throwers, but it's difficult getting over 50 or 60 kcd on a cheap stock light because of the LED, size of the reflector, and stock amperage. Of course a $14 Jacob A60 can do in the 70's stock as a dedicated thrower using a XRE-Q5 - it has some spill, but is only about 250-300 lumens or so.
Sure, agree - we always need to review current tech, current offerings. The Convoy L2 may be a new contender at $51 for the U2 1B here, and posted reviews say betwen 50 and 70 kcd, looks like. Haven't seen any quoted throw #'s here on BLF, but it may exist somewhere.
Lots of threads but none seem to address the gap I’m interested in. Tons about A60/HD2010 and the high end stuff but what about mid range throwers? Even if I have to change drivers or emitters I’m ok with it, but its hard to believe there’s such a huge gap. Thanks for the replys so far but my original question is still open.
Well, yes there's a gap, but for a good reason. XML's in budget lights limit out at 50-60 kcd at best because of typical T6 or U2 emitter offerings, on alum stars, plus relatively small reflectors up to 60 mm, usually limited to 3 amps, sometimes direct drive like the HD2010, but the T6 on alum kills it's potential, plus bad loss of amps in the tailcap. For example, you'll never find a copper star or AR lens in a budget light, even though it may not add much cost but the budget light makers have no incentive to push the limits, they can just claim 1,800 lumens no matter what crap they got in there.
The attention to detail, and size, to gain throw you'll find only in higher end offerings, like the Crelant 7G9 (other models), TN31, etc.
Well Tom just Built a Small Sun ZY-T08 for me that is now putting 200k OTF. We took them out tonight with intentions of doing some 500-600 meter beamshots but it is windy and kept blowing our target down and not to mention tons of crap in the air. We played around a little any way and it is very impressive to say the least. It also has a usable spill to boot. Tom turned this $24 light into one that will out throw even the mighty Tn31 so it can be done. I am sure he can chime in here and tell you what he did to it.
I can give you the basics. He put a dedomed XM-L2 U2 on a copper sink pad and drove it at 4.5 amps. He put a UCL/p lens on it an a solder wick mod on the t/c. It has a nice hot spot but the usable spill is what surprised me the most. It is a totally awesome light now.
De-domed XM-L2 U2 1A/1C/SinkPAD, 4.5A Nanjg (sandwhich style, original driver as contact board), solder wick in the tailcap springs, UCL/p lens, 22 gauge teflon (or silicone?) coated wire. Oh - also the SinkPAD was AS5'ed on a copper disc, epoxied to the pill top - extra copper heat sink there, and copper on the inside of the pill under the pill top.
It's basically what I did to mine, that I posted in a T08 thread, with the de-doming added, so results were right in line with what I got, de-doming made it a little more than double, or about double I believe. Think I got over 100 kcd in my non de-domed T08.
Details on my build are here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/16808, and the final posted throw # was 100 kcd with 2 Pana PD's. Probably higher with 2 Samsung INR 20R's. Also got Samsung 20Q's and they seems to be as good as the 20R's. Waiting on the 30A rated Sony's from FT.
Its a parallel battery setup -- please check the link above - lots of details/pics there on the T08.
Does the solder wick on the tailsprings make much difference? And is the difference only applicable to high current draw type situations, or could most lights benefit?
Just got a 170 lumens bump on a HD 2010 by wiring in that solder wick. There's factors though, I soldered the spring down better than what it was before, so maybe a difference on that alone? Maybe you could replace the stock spring with a better qual spring? But how do you really know a spring is high qual and better than the stock springs? What the seller says? The higher cost? Can you get an exact size replacement? So, probably easier to just wire the spring.
Also, on my original mod'ed HD2010, I noticed I could no longer get the high lumens, high throw #'s I used to get. Then yesterday, decided to take apart the tailcap to see what I did there as a reference - and there it was! The solder wick gave way and was all cramed up on the top of the spring! Mystery solved! That was before I did the solder wick in a better way. Early, I ran it outside the spring -- now I put it inside the spring. Also, to get rid of the solder flux in the wick, I am soaking it first in acetone -- this keeps the solder from running up/down the solder wick that sitffens it up.
