(Last update) Wanna buy BTU Shocker, but...

Hey Rdr any idea how to do the dry driver install on the btu ?

you failed to mention the run time of HID light… AFAIK it can only runs few minutes at a time before the protection kicks in because the heat issue.
it’s only for show and tell, not useful for everyday use :slight_smile:

+1

Few mins? I ran mine at 45W for 20 mins and it gets hot for sure but it doesnt shut off or anything. It has a pretty nice heat sink on it. I havent tried doing that in 85 w mode though.

Best to ask Tom E, he was the mod guru on my BTU. I don’t wont mis-direct you.

Ok… I asked him before but he didn’t reply to that specific point (he addressed other things) but lets see what he says later.

A little off topic, ok a lot, but has anybody actually measured the lumens and lux on these 85wt HID’s? I HATE the delayed power on of HID’s. But I’m curious if the output is truly enough to make me look past the delay on these 85wt lights.
I mean I have a 35wt Ryobi HID that I haven’t turned on after it was perhaps a month old. Nowhere near enough power or throw on it to make up for the delayed power on. Though I tested it at about 2500 lumens and 600m throw.
So any REAL numbers out there on the 85wt?

I don’t have any real numbers but from most estimations these lights are easily 4000 lumens minimum. My 85W hid crushes my BTU (but keep in mind I’m not sure my turbo mode on my BTU is working). It throws much further and has a lot more spill.

Having said all that… my 55W Thor cyclops absolutely obliterates all the lights in question… heck it would destroy the BTU + 85W ebay HID combined. Its that bright. Don’t even get me started on throw…. I mean remember Fritz modded barn burner 55W HID that hit clouds? Lets see an SR95S UT do that lol (I know I know its not fair to compare).

Bibihang, since you are from Malaysia, I would advise you not to buy BTU if you are not serious modder. Spend RM100 extra and get TK75 which is better in many ways and come with 2 years warranty.

Thanks for the info.

If you care about throw (and modding) then BTU is the better choice. TK75’s throw is a bit underwhelming. But in other respects like warranty and UI and weight… the TK75 is better. But as I said before, I like the BTU’s heavy feel.

Like my brother said (rdrfronty) I do prefer my TK75 but still love the shocker and will happily take it off your hands if you decide to sell it. I most definitely think you would regret selling it but the offer stands. If I were you I would change it to XM-L2 U2 on copper sinkpads and maybe bump the stock driver. Ask Dale how much of a difference it made on his.


Come on, I would never post something that I thought was going to be a disservice. I take all bias out the window and look at which light is better over. For me the TK75 is a much better light overall even if the CW BTU is similar in brightness.

Will it really out throw the TK75 "easily"? For me easily is +100 meters. Do you think it is that much better? If so I am going to request some CW emitters from Ric.

Seriously Joe it will. My TK75 throws right about 616 meters. We measured it at 95k cd. My brothers shocker before mods threw about 125k cd. That calculates out to about 707 meters. After Tom got through with it the light is a monster throwing 181k cd or 850 meters .

The BTU vs TK75 we own measured 125k vs 94.5K. Basically 707m vs 614m.

As you can see from rdr and buggy, yes it will throw about 100m more and its not simply because of the emitters but more about the deeper and larger throw-y reflectors. That is the main reason I’m not interested in the TK75. Before I got into the big flashlight game… I always wanted a TK70. I loved its massive head… I never got around to getting it… the BTU came out with the same head and superior performance for nearly half the money ($120) + used 18650! I was sold. I think once I figure out how to get the dry driver in I am going to be frothing at the mouth over this light.

I have played with a shocker and a TK70 at the same time, The shocker (an early one) was impressive in the output but the quality did not match the Fenix. At the time the price was higher than it is now and I then would have said that it would be 75/25% for the Fenix TK75.

But at the price and U2 it is now I would lean 55/45 TK75. At $100 I would go Shocker and if it ever reached that I would buy one BUT.

The thing I find very worrying is the AR coated Lens business, people that had bought them still are either buying, bought or trying to locate a source for an AR lens to retrofit. If Ric’s site was in the UK I believe that Trading Standards would have been down his neck. Not too mention small claims court If I had bought one. Though I believe I have read that AR lenses may actually be attached now. But that does not change that a lot have been sold with just a plain lens. Did anyone ever get a refund over that omission.

I personally would not trust any site that I believe knowingly describes a product that is not what is delivered. Nor would I entrust personal info to them. For that reason I would not entertain a shocker.(Though I would buy one SH).

Therefore the TK75 would get my vote. Though I might also look at that LusteFire 3XU3-X3 at $80odd could be a good bargain

Looks like relic38 helped you out there with the Dry driver install - I haven't seen one, or read about one, so was dificult to answer.

Well, well.. It doesn't. Maybe it doesn't match your needs, but that's all.

For me, the NW was a conscious choice. I use the light for photography / light painting and the NW tint is far more suitable for that.

And for a NW light, this thing really throws! Please keep in mind that the NW version throws about the same than TK75 CW. What other NW light throws even nearly as far?


Some people have tried the DRY driver and said it's not significantly brighter than the BTU driver. I would invest XM-L2s with copper SinkPADs instead.

Exactly, cheers!!