There are quite a few reviews of the earlier XPG model EO3. It actually got quite positive reviews even compared to some of the more premium flashlight brands.
I had a look around, but I can't find a photo of this light taken apart. I wondered if it was possible to reverse the tube and have those fins at the head end, I guess someone is just going to have to get one and tell us :)
got a red one in cool white on the way. quite quick response already got tracking, ordered last night.
Got so excited seeing that xeno while browsing blf on my phone at work that I just ordered a blue one:) where are they shipping them from?
from the look of it.. California.
OK so I got the 14mm XML from Shiningbeam in the mail this week and I checked and it will fit perfectly in my R5-A3 with the strobe delete mod, my current amp draw.
Tail cap draw with freshly charged trust fire flame 14500.
High 1.648 amps
Med .467 amps
Low .168 amps
I think the low will not be low enough, but I could live with that. Does anyone want to guess what the max lumens on high will be?
Thanks,
E
Assuming it has about the same draw I’d say around 600 lumen.
I could not resist. I mounted the 14mm XML T6 from Shiningbeam, it fits perfect.
http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/the-253/**NEW**-Cree-XM-dsh-L-T6/Detail
Something weird happened when I went to check amperage at the tailcap with a freshly charged Trustfire flame 14500 at 4.135V I got:
1.813amps on high
.533amps on medium
.194 amps on low
It's pretty bright, the hotspot is bigger but with about the same brightness and a lot more flood. The low mode is acceptable. So if you buy the KD version of this light for $14, the Shiningbeam emitter for $11 and do the strobe delete mod for free you get a pretty sweet light for $25. The other strange thing is the light does not seam to heat up as fast or as much.
Sweet! Quick calculations show you should be getting about the following:
High - 725lm
Medium - 213lm
Low - 77.6lm
My real worry would be the light not heating up much. I have a TF-F23 and on high that bugger heats up REAL good and that's with a Q5 pulling between 1000mA-1100mA. Granted it's a 10440 cell in a stainless body but an XM-L pulling 1813mA should get pretty warm in such a small light as yours. I'd go over it again to make sure it's heatsinked as best as possible.
Johnny
That R5-E3 is a sporty looking little light with that red ring in the tail. How many pieces does it break down into? From the pics on KD it looks like only the tail cap and the bezel come off and the entire body is one piece.
Those lumen numbers seam rather optimistic, it is not nearly as bright as my Yezl Z1X XML. The entire body is one piece, the pill screws out from the top. I had posted some pictures on how to mod this driver to delete the strobe mode. I can take it apart once the thermal epoxy dries and take some more pics if you want. I am pretty happy with the outcome, I think the heat transfer issue might be do to the epoxy still being wet I packed it with FUJIK.
Johnny - Can I ask a dumb question? What did you use to arrive at those lumens? I've just discovered amps (I know, it took a while, I'm a slow learner) and I'm curious how to predict lumens as you seem to have done.
Foy
Foy if you have a look here http://flashlight-wiki.com/Brightness_Bins then you can see the output at various currents - I assume these were taken from Cree's datasheet.
As you can see there is a non-linear relationship between current and output, which makes it a little bit harder to come up with a figure for any perticular current.
You can plot a graph using know points and estimate that way which is probably most accurate...or you can fluff it by assuming that it is a linear progression between the two nearest values.
(I'm away from home at the moment, as it turns out IE seems to still not have a spellchecker...so err shh :)
I just tried the following: Solarforce L2r + Ultrafire 900 mAh (right...) + AA spacer + Manfont 3 mode XM-L.
It started out very bright. My other XM-L was busy as part of another test (separate post on that shortly, I hope), so I didn't have another XM-L to compare against. I did a comparison with a low voltage XP-G driven by a 16340 and I'm confident that the XM-L/14500 combination started off brighter.
I stopped the test after 30 minutes. At that point, the XM-L/14500 combination was still pretty bright but not as bright as a fresh XP-G/16340 combination. I tested the voltage on the 14500 at 3.12 v, which suggests that there wasn't a lot of life left in the 14500.
I don't think any of this should be surprising given what we know about the XM-L and battery capacities, but I thought I'd pass the anecdote along.
No problem Piers, I could have looked myself I suppose but that is what I need to know. Thank you.
Foy
Foy, I created a spreadsheet for myself a while back using Cree’s data sheets on all their flashlight emitters. For other brands I use information gathered by others in an appendix to my Cree data. While the increase is not perfectly linear it is pretty close with only minor degredation in output as input increases.
My spreadsheet has all the models and each bin along with lumen output at 350mA (700mA for XM-L) and each emitter's maximum mA rating. I just use simple cross-multiplication and division to predict rough lumen output at a given power input.
Here is a link to my file. Hopefully it will come in handy for you:
My Romisen RC-G2 with unprotected 14500 and XML draws 2.35 Amps direct drive. I've never run it for mor than 2 minutes but it's sweet.
Johnny - Yes, yes. That helps big time. At least until I get the courage/unlazy to build a Match's sphere.
thankyouuuuthankyouverymuchFoy
The longest part of building my lightbox was waiting for the paint to dry. Used cheap white gloss that took a day between coats to dry. Put in 4 or more coats to be sure then sanded it to matt the surface.
It really isn't hard.
And Match's box is far better designed than mine which is literally a cardboard box.
My Xeno E03 black cool-white with XML just arrived in the mail.
Not bad actually. Fit and finish looks excellent. Feels very well built for a $30 light. It actually feels tougher than my Thrunite Neutron 1C which cost twice as much. I've read that on high the Xeno draws 1.56 amps so I'm running it on AW IMR 600 mah 14500 cells. This means the Thrunite should have the edge in runtime since it supposedly only draws 1.3 amps on high and I'm running it on protected AW 16340 750 mah cells.
The E03's beam is very floody, as expected with such a large emitter and small shallow relector. Brightness on high is slightly brighter than my Thrunite Neutron 1C on high. Still haven't decided which one I like better. The Thrunite has a squishy switch boot which interferes with tailstanding. I've ordered a replacement boot which hopefully will fix this problem. The Xeno is slightly bigger and lacks real low modes, but tailstands well and looks more waterproof and shock resistant (The battery in the Xeno is isolated by springs on each end, and it has double o-rings). I expect the Thrunite's HAIII anodizing should last longer than the Xeno's HAII anodizing. Both lights have good knurling and feel great in the hand. The Xeno has more aggressive knurling, but on the Thrunite more of the light is covered with knurling.
Someone earlier asked if the Xeno's casing could be reversed so that the fins are closer to the head. The answer is no. The tailcap unscrews just above the fins. The rest of the body of the light is entirely one piece. On the upside, this may actually help with heat transmission, because heat isn't having to cross from one piece of aluminum to another like it does with the lights where the head unscrews, such as the Thrunite.
Tint on both looks fairly good, though I'd have to give the Thrunite the edge. Its tint looks a bit more pure white.