keep us informed on the meters don, mines a megger I’ve had a long time, I’m hoping the calibration firm can repair it to be honest, I’ll have a look on the bay as well though.
Meggers are good. Take a look around for folks who can repair it. The population round you (Greater Manchester has more folks than all of Scotland) is around the population of my country!
There’s sure to be someone who can sort if for sensible money.
thats my thought, its usually fine once its dried out but the ranges are shot now (47.6v li ion anyone?). I’ll get it into the calibration place next week, I’m getting away with my clamp meter but I want my dmm back up and running.
This is the PCM of the battery, no 4th mode
fleibaka
Don’t think you mean Pulse Code Modulation.
Please explain.
PCM: Protection Circuit Module 
PCB: Protection Circuit Board
it means the same
fleibaka
Nae faur Ah kimez fae!
(Or in the language mistakenly known as English)
Not from where I come from.
PCM aun PCB ain’t even close.
Battery is defiantly an issue now, unless the driver is the thing giving out at 4.17v’s; Not getting a high mode (flash and then shutoff) on high after charging. This is of course with the 2xTF protected flames.
I’m just going to use it on low/medium now (It gets hot enough on medium) until I can get some new cells (Probably AW IMR’s). My pill came loose too, but It was fairly easy to re-tighten; I did take it out and look and it’s got a nice centering disk, alu pill (Small and light) but I had a scuff or two on the dome. Might have been my fault moving it around with the loose pill.
Threads are kind of rough and cut though some cloth I was using to clean them. They’re better with some lube, but it still isn’t great (Squeaking when first screwing together). I bet they’ll last long enough, it would just be nice if they were already clean (might clean em up someday, but not now). Something that should have been done at the factory, but is pretty common in cheaper lights.
The O rings are pretty grippy as well, and thin; a different/harder more chemical resistant type would have been preferable, even if it isn’t GITD (Not a big deal on the action side of things).
Disassembled a bit
Other side of the head
Ultrafire E05, Trustfire Mini-01 CW, Trustfire Mini-02 NW
Mini-02, 93mm C3 SS, Mini-01
Beams from above. 02 on left, 01 on right.
Tints fairly close to how I see them (In a very brightly-lit office) 02 on left, 01 on right. About 25cm from the off-white wall.
Size comparison
Recently I purchased this light from the pre-order.
Has anyone determined whether the driver or the battery is the issue with no high mode until battery reaches 3.8 volts?
It’s kind of disappointing.
Odd that it took a customer to discover it.
I think this will be my last pre-order. I’ll wait for reviews next time.
Here was a review:
I don't know, why the pictures are missing now.
The issue is oversensitive battery protection circuits. It doesn’t exist with any of my unprotected cells and I can’t find a protected one knocking about to test. The current draw from memory is about 2A on high which is probably a bit excessive for a non-IMR 16340 so the protection circuit is just doing what it is supposed to.
I just got my Mini-02 last night. I have about 8 Trustfire 16340 protected cells at home purchased at various times. I had forgotten about this whole 3.8v issue and had arrived at my own conclusion that the light does not like protected cells. When fully cranking down to engage the light, high mode flashes briefly then quits out. If I pop in an unprotected Ultrafire 16340 the light works without any issues. Regular CR123A primaries work just fine as well. I have ordered some unprotected TF Flames from DX to use in this light as well as my new S10 Baton which will not work at all with protected cells.
I will do more testing to see if it is an issue with the protection circuit on the cells or an issue with the cell length itself. I did not get my TF Flames from Rey so I don't think it's an issue with the protection circuit being triggered. I've had no issues with those cells in any other light I've used them in including 3A XM-L drop-ins in L2M lights. I'm inclined to believe it's a length and pressure issue against the driver. The spring in the Mini-02 is so long half the cell sticks out of the tube when placed in the rear of the light.
The threads in mine will need to be cleaned, too. It is no where as smooth as my original BLF Minis and I can't turn the head with one hand like I can with the Mini-01 lights. Other than that I prefer the body of the Mini-02. Really grippy and even better looking IMO.
rey had confirmed that it was a battery circuit problem and that this was being sorted at the manufacturer…
TF told me it's battery problem, they're changing the PCB.
if anyone unluckily got a bad and useless battery,I'd like to refund you part of the money.
I´ll hope you you get refund from TF, too?
regards
fleibaka
maybe not, they just repair some.
EagleTac 16340 750mAh batteries are too thick to fit the Reylight Bonny…. 
I have received my Reylight.
Nice quality, and very bright on the TF flames. The batteries does cause a brief flash (about 0.5 seconds?) of high, and then the high goes off. I drained the battery a little to about 3.8V and now it works fine on high.
The gripping on the light feels good, it’s so smooth I can’t operate it with one hand (if my hands are not a little sweaty).
Nice value, very affordable and limited edition. Definitely a keeper.